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2014 Town & County Electrical Problems

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  #1  
Old 03-06-2020 | 09:22 AM
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Unhappy 2014 Town & County Electrical Problems

I apologize for the length of the post/question, but this has been an ongoing problem for the past few weeks. I also apologize for my lack of car maintenance lingo, as my knowledge of vehicle maintenance is low. My current vehicle has roughly 90k miles. Prior to this, outside of my 'blind spot system' not working, everything else has worked well.

A few weeks ago, we were driving the vehicle and all of a sudden, every single dash light turned on, the wipers turned on (would not turn off), radio turned off, speedometer turned off, and the dash had multiple messages on it, 'NO BUS' along with a little red circle light that I'd never seen. So I pulled in my drive, turned the car on and off a couple times, and eventually it went away. A few days later, it did it again, this time while i was out of town. So I pulled off the road, did the same thing (turned it on and off). It did not return to normal right away, but after about another mile down the road, it all went back to normal.

I took it to the shop, they said they connected it to their computer and saw multiple errors, so they 'reset' it a couple times, and said it was cleared. So I took it home, within a mile the power flickered on and off but then went back to normal. The next day, while sitting in the car adjusting the heat, i noticed about every 30 seconds, the heat would turn on, then off, on then off. So I ended up taking the vehicle back in. I advised the mechanic that I've read on multiple Chrysler forums that it may be a short in the dash/door, so they advised they would look again. They stated their mechanic then followed the wires from the dash, into the door, and did not find a short. They said they cleaned the 'connections' and upon picking it up, the errors at the time were gone. Sure enough, I drove it a couple days later, it worked fine. A couple days after that (hadn't driven it since I have a work vehicle), I got in to start it, and it was dead. No attempt to start, nothing, just some dash lights again (lightning bolt, engine light, tire light). I was able to jump it easily, but once I got in and was driving it back to the shop, this time the engine and tire light (service tire system) were on, and in the short 3 mile drive to the shop, the power continuously flickered on and off. Speedometer and engine were working, but the power did not stop flickering on and off the entire time. I advised the shop of this, and they seemed kind of clueless and said they would look again and would see what they can find. They mentioned it may need a new 'cluster system' for the dash, whatever that it. But that unless found used, they are pretty expensive. I also called a Chrysler dealer service rep and mentioned my issues, and they said they would have to see the problem. I mentioned the problem changed from day to day and they seemed kind of puzzled also. Anyone have here have any similar issues? PLEASE HELP!. Thank you!
 
  #2  
Old 03-07-2020 | 04:28 PM
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From: Dumfries....
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Sounds like intermitent loss of power somewhere. First thing I would recommend is a new battery and I'm sure someone will come along and advise you of the type. I just bought the biggest that would fit on my battery tray the last time, Bosch, and its still going strong after 4 years. While your waiting have a scrumage below your main fuse box, check for corrosion at all connections, may require pulling apart so disconnect battery.
 
  #3  
Old 03-07-2020 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jacgarza
- - snip - -

Anyone here have any similar issues? PLEASE HELP!. Thank you!
Petrol on 90k @ 4 years old. UK are mostly diesel and have been since the 80's Most brand new batteries are old when you get the car new yours is now 5-6+ and battery life is about 3 years these days. The BUS is going to have many and various codes logged and it's gonna be confused to hell.

Diags then repair is always easy cheap to complex expensive. If I had your problem I'd start from DIY a cheap test, beg, buy, borrow a known good newish battery for hours and swap out. Don't put the exchange battery on for 30 minutes. When you put the good battery on it will 'ping' all areas of the BUS and check them. Your car is a series of different computers that run through the IPM (fuse box) all those bad codes will over time correct themselves if it runs well.

Test it, put a good newish fully charged battery on it. Did it run ok ? If so return the borrowed battery and buy a new one. Let the group know how you get on my friend. Best of luck.
 
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Old 03-10-2020 | 11:21 AM
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Alright I will have them check. This will be my 3rd time in. First time they reset the computer and it malfunctioned within a mile of leaving. 2nd time they 'cleaned the connections' from the dash, to the door, it drove a couple times without any issue. Then sat for a couple days and the battery was completely dead, and once jumped the power intermittently went out while driving the 3 miles to the shop (air on and off, dash lights on etc). They just called and said they connected a different TIPM and the issue was still there, put the old one on and its gone currently. So I"m going to have to ask them to check the battery and alternator connections next I guess, completed baffled at this one.
 
  #5  
Old 03-14-2020 | 02:18 PM
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I had the same issue turns out it was the fuse block to the right of the battery was not properly seated. There are clips there clip it out and then push back down. Since then never had the issue.
 
  #6  
Old 06-13-2020 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jacgarza
Alright I will have them check. This will be my 3rd time in. First time they reset the computer and it malfunctioned within a mile of leaving. 2nd time they 'cleaned the connections' from the dash, to the door, it drove a couple times without any issue. Then sat for a couple days and the battery was completely dead, and once jumped the power intermittently went out while driving the 3 miles to the shop (air on and off, dash lights on etc). They just called and said they connected a different TIPM and the issue was still there, put the old one on and its gone currently. So I"m going to have to ask them to check the battery and alternator connections next I guess, completed baffled at this one.
Please let us know what ended up being the issue. My car just experienced almost the exact same issues. Over the past couple weeks weird electronic issues have been occurring: rear wiper starting without being turned on at the stalk, AC coming on, and then last night it kinda flipped out when I got in and tried to start it. Lots of high speed clicking coming from under the fuse box area, headlights very dimly flickering while the clicking took place and the multifunction display on the dash was acting like it was possessed. It would be great know know if the battery recommendation fixed the issue or if it was something more serious.
 
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