Interesting thought, and I just put new discs on the front as well. But discs get hot through use in really cold weather too don't they, so would some water at a couple of degrees really warp them ? Never the less, I would err on the side of caution and do it cold anyway. Thanks for the post though, appreciated.

 

Hi all Newbie here

I have same fault with 2004 2.5 CRD LX. A local garage to my place of work hooked up my Voyager and said that the front drivers wheel speed sensor was showing a fault. Also a it had a input valve error??. The mechanic was puzzled by the valve error?? They suggested the speed sensor was changed and they would reset the abs ecu for me. Just incase the valve error was a false positive.

 

Update ( bother ). OK, I duly removed each wheel and jetted all around ( looked pretty clean though ). Did the backs first, then the fronts. Doing the last one ( isn't it always the way ), I think that I found my problem. The bolt that holds the sensor on is "missing", and the sensor is loose. If only. The only bit that's missing is the head - the bolt is sheared off ( swear words ). How the heck did that happen ? I can only assume that it was faulty, and the vibration eventually did for it. It's going to be a challenge to get the stud out, that's for sure. Most likely the sensor has been damaged and needs replacing. Bother.

 

Hi Captain Atlantis,

Having had a look at mine, the bolt head is also missing on the passenger front?? (Mechanic suggested drivers front)
I have managed to put a 3mm hole in the Hub casting flange and sensor retaining bracket and used a small cable tie to hold the sensor in place as a temp measure.

Access to the broken screw using a std jobber drill bit is a no go with the hub in situ. An extended drill bit may afford the drilling out of the broken screw from the wheel side of the hub. I would suggest that a heli coil repair be available, as possilble thread damage could occur from drill bit wonder! (I have started to drill mine out but need to extend the drill bit, the Jacobs chuck hits hub flange)

Road wheel sensor new replacement, appear to be only from Chrysler as I have yet to find one through any spares dealership!!! Any help here?

Another thought for those with the ABS light probelm, the Rotor Ring located behind the brake discs, looks like castle battlements. The wheel sensor sits directly above them.) could be broken/dirty/ cracked and loose.

Muss60

 

Thanks Muss60,

This is our 3rd GV, and it's never happened before, so I was more than interested to hear of another ocurrence. Mine's on cable ties too at the moment ! Thankfully, my reluctor rings are fine ( dirty, but not broken ), 'cause they look like a pig of a job as well. At least they are not expensive. As with you, I can't find any sensors on the open market, and I haven't gone to the dealers yet for a price - I will be expecting the " we can't sell you those because they are a safety-critical item and must be replaced by a TRAINED monkey " speech.

Hopefully I can at least get that broken stud out, or it's off to the breakers for a hub.....

Cheers, Mark.

 

hi all i put a new ABS sensor in yesterday and the light is still on but the lad in chrysler said it will take 5 to 10 mile befor it goes off is this true

 

Ask us again in 5-10 miles :-D

I had an ABS light come on last year in the snow when the back spun out - I believe the ABS sensor/control gets upset if there's a vast difference in the speed between the wheels. My light stayed on for a couple of miles then went out when (presumably) it detected that all was well. I'm a little surprised that the dealer couldn't reset it though - would have thought that once they'd fitted the new part, they'd test it.

 

[QUOTE=actd;58627]Ask us again in 5-10 miles :-D

I had an ABS light come on last year in the snow when the back spun out - I believe the ABS sensor/control gets upset if there's a vast difference in the speed between the wheels. My light stayed on for a couple of miles then went out when (presumably) it detected that all was well. I'm a little surprised that the dealer couldn't reset it though - would have thought that once they'd fitted the new part, they'd test it.[/Q


thanks for the reply, i changed it my self, spoke to chrysler again and they said the same again so i have now done 43 miles and still ABS light is on. had it on the computer and showed no faults at all

 

Hi Caolan,

My local garage also suggested after a few miles the ABS ECU will reset itself, they did also say they can reset the ECU.

It was also suggested that a battery disconnect for ten plus minutes will also clear the code. Radio codes will have to be reinstalled though.

My light has gone off for a while now and have no more codes in the ABS ECU. Somthing must be on the way out for the light to come on in the first place.

Its going in for additional cam belt and clutch seal work Tuesday, has anyone found a supply for the wheel sensors apart from Chrysler?

Muss60

 

Muss60 ( and anyone else ),

When your ABS light is on ( or off ), does your ABS work ? My light is still on, and the ABS is not working. The fact that the ABS light being on will be an MOT fail is beyond me - not all cars have ABS anyway, and the ABS does not have any effect on the power / quality of the actual braking. The driver is not part of the MOT test ( different issue ).

I'm going to try the 10 minute battery disconnect - I only did it for a minute to see if it cleared, and it didnt. Will post up again.

Cheers all, Mark.