Airbag light - seatbelt?
#1
Airbag light - seatbelt?
Hi all,
Having been using my wife's car for the past 4 days, the Chrysler was sat on the driveway, went to use it today and airbag light is staying on.
When I bought the car it had the airbag light on and steering controls were faulty, so the leaf/clock spring was replaced and all was fine, so I don't believe it's the leaf/clock spring, the cruise controls still work also, so makes me think that less.
So, gone looking under the seats and connectors look fine, next step will be to disconnect and reconnect all of them to check for any problems.
However, I just noticed the driver side seat-belt socket (is that what it's called?) is hanging out, not sat snug into it's plastic retainer and I'm wondering if this could be the culprit (Is this part of the seat-belt pre-tensioner/airbag trigger, or is that in the reel part of the seat belt?)
See the photo to show you what I found:
Or am I barking up the wrong tree there. I've also only got the OBD 2 reader, haven't got an SRS reader (yet! I'm tempted to buy one for £15 and read the code).
I did the key-dance and nothing came up (other than P1130 as usual!)
Cheers as always folks.
Having been using my wife's car for the past 4 days, the Chrysler was sat on the driveway, went to use it today and airbag light is staying on.
When I bought the car it had the airbag light on and steering controls were faulty, so the leaf/clock spring was replaced and all was fine, so I don't believe it's the leaf/clock spring, the cruise controls still work also, so makes me think that less.
So, gone looking under the seats and connectors look fine, next step will be to disconnect and reconnect all of them to check for any problems.
However, I just noticed the driver side seat-belt socket (is that what it's called?) is hanging out, not sat snug into it's plastic retainer and I'm wondering if this could be the culprit (Is this part of the seat-belt pre-tensioner/airbag trigger, or is that in the reel part of the seat belt?)
See the photo to show you what I found:
Or am I barking up the wrong tree there. I've also only got the OBD 2 reader, haven't got an SRS reader (yet! I'm tempted to buy one for £15 and read the code).
I did the key-dance and nothing came up (other than P1130 as usual!)
Cheers as always folks.
#2
Regarding the mat inside the seat squab, there may be a bypass plug available that fools the SFS into thinking all is ok as it contains a little resistor pack. I found something relating to this on Fleebay that casts about £15 compared to over £100 which would also need a seat stripdown. Be interesting to know if it works.
#3
Ta m8, that's gonna be my next few tests to be honest, as I've probably got the right resistor combination in my parts drawers (electrician minded rather than mechanical!).
So next steps may be to disconnect seat sensors and test resistance nt and compare them, it'll at least help me eliminate the seats from my tests.
I've checked connectors and cables and can't see any damages wiring which appears common. Also checked and the seat belt detonators look intact.
Anyone in the North-East with an srs/air-bag diagnostics tool care to lend a hand? There's a Lemon top up for grabs ;-)
So next steps may be to disconnect seat sensors and test resistance nt and compare them, it'll at least help me eliminate the seats from my tests.
I've checked connectors and cables and can't see any damages wiring which appears common. Also checked and the seat belt detonators look intact.
Anyone in the North-East with an srs/air-bag diagnostics tool care to lend a hand? There's a Lemon top up for grabs ;-)
#6
Statistically, the most common cause of airbag tell-tale is a blown pretensioner squib. This makes the seatbelt socket some 4" or so shorter than the rest. I had this problem on an S-type Jag. in the passenger seatbelt.
The firing element for the squib was 2ohm, and it needs to be pretty exact. I fooled the micro by putting a 2R2 half watt resistor in place of the blown squib's element. The micro fires the squib by discharging a capacitor into it if it detects more than a pre-programmed deceleration from a inertia-type sensor, and heavy braking WILL fire it, as is the intention. As we all know, the car will not pass the MOT if there is/are tell-tales illuminated after engine has started.
The circuit is simple, only two wires to the firing element. I fixed mine with a little choc-bloc and a tie wrap holding it down to a nearby convenient point. You can check if the firing element is o/c with any meter, a DVM on ohms scale is fine. The current from the DVM is too small to fire the squib, or anywhere near. Find the right resistance by measuring one of the others.
Quod erat desperandum.
Leedsman.
The firing element for the squib was 2ohm, and it needs to be pretty exact. I fooled the micro by putting a 2R2 half watt resistor in place of the blown squib's element. The micro fires the squib by discharging a capacitor into it if it detects more than a pre-programmed deceleration from a inertia-type sensor, and heavy braking WILL fire it, as is the intention. As we all know, the car will not pass the MOT if there is/are tell-tales illuminated after engine has started.
The circuit is simple, only two wires to the firing element. I fixed mine with a little choc-bloc and a tie wrap holding it down to a nearby convenient point. You can check if the firing element is o/c with any meter, a DVM on ohms scale is fine. The current from the DVM is too small to fire the squib, or anywhere near. Find the right resistance by measuring one of the others.
Quod erat desperandum.
Leedsman.
#7
Thanks all.
Typically, this morning taking the mrs to work, no light, so either I've waggled a wire back into place or it's done it itself.
(Though yesterday nobody was sat in passenger seat, so that could be a theory on the seat sensor for passenger side)
So for now, thanks, QinteQ cheers for the kind offer, if it re-offends then might take you up on that offer.
Leedsman, on the seat-belt pre-tensioner, the two seat-belts are at the same height, and I can't see any signs of either firing, so I'm discounting that for now, the strange position of the belt was just because the plastic cover had dropped down.
Will wait for it to come back on (I'm not daft enough to think that'll be it!).
Typically, this morning taking the mrs to work, no light, so either I've waggled a wire back into place or it's done it itself.
(Though yesterday nobody was sat in passenger seat, so that could be a theory on the seat sensor for passenger side)
So for now, thanks, QinteQ cheers for the kind offer, if it re-offends then might take you up on that offer.
Leedsman, on the seat-belt pre-tensioner, the two seat-belts are at the same height, and I can't see any signs of either firing, so I'm discounting that for now, the strange position of the belt was just because the plastic cover had dropped down.
Will wait for it to come back on (I'm not daft enough to think that'll be it!).
#8
I'm there every Wed my friend. Under passenger seat is always a good starter~for~ten most manufacturers Merc Fiat etc put the connector under the NSF seat - the slide and thump forward and slide and thump back of a manual seat can often shake the connector slightly slack.
#9
Well, the light has come back on again, and this time it seems to be staying.
Have checked under passenger seat, connectors reseated, etc. No difference. Haven't tried the same under drivers seat.
QinteQ, might take you up on that offer if you can please, would be good to get the codes read and see what it is thats triggering the light rather than guessing. Let me know if you're able.
Cheers,
Andy
Have checked under passenger seat, connectors reseated, etc. No difference. Haven't tried the same under drivers seat.
QinteQ, might take you up on that offer if you can please, would be good to get the codes read and see what it is thats triggering the light rather than guessing. Let me know if you're able.
Cheers,
Andy