hello there, any feedback would be gratefully received, I have a 2005 Chrysler grand voyager 2.8 CRD done 55k drove perfectly, went to it started her up all the boxes were highlighted over the gear selectors so the ‘PDN123’ had boxes around them. Informed by Chrysler dealer the car has gone into limp mode, took it to them they plugged into their computer and could not communicate with the car, they then investigated the problem to be the body control module in the engine bay the one at the end of the fuse box, this immediately took the car out of limp mode. So fitted a brand new BCU however the problem has come back again, took it back to the dealer they don’t know what the problem is and no codes are coming up or their system, if you switch the car off she goes out of limp mode and drives fine until you put the car back into park she goes back into limp mode this problem now has worsen and now the car will not come out of limp mode, please helpppppp

 

I hoped a techie would come to your aid, but until one does I'll throw in an opinion.

- been there done that, but never to the point of 'boxes were highlighted' or 'car will not come out of limp mode'
- so yours is much more of a problem than mine was
- mine did a 'Lazarus' after a whole six months of 'limp mode' 20 times per day / journey, and dozens of excellent techies looking at it

Whilst I never did get to the bottom of my problem, I was convinced and continue to be convinced it was nothing more than an impossible to find bad earth / bad live / bad connection / bad plug / bad connection under the IPM where the loom enters the fusebox.

In order to take off your old BCM the battery would have to be disconnected, that alone would have been enough to reset the car, and disconnecting the battery now will reset the car again - try it!

.Q1. what happened to the old BCM, you did keep it did you, there may be nothing whatsoever wrong with it.

.Q2. what codes [if any] does the 'key dance' throw up ?

 

i have a 2008 Chrysler grand voyager 2.8crd diesel auto. my problem is its stuck in limp mode. i've spent a £1000 on it up to now. i took it in a garage 2 weeks ago, where it was 4 days. they told me its not worth fixing and would be cheaper to buy another car. i don't accept that. they did the cluster repair for me in november. it cost me £300, to get the engine management light off and the abs light. now there back on and its showing up various faults on it. a cluster fault, LF / RF wheel sensor signal fault. Valve power feed failure. codes p0700 and p0725. 9x theft alarm module codes. 36 missing sensor rear, 26 missing sensor LF. 31 open sensor RR. 21 open sensor RF. 4x UNKNOWN. internal failure 38 wheel speed error. 73 inoperative watchdog inhibit. 71 ram incident. 8 power sliding door module- left codes. 84 mismatched vin. 69. excessive dump. 6x unknown and 7x unknown. 52 open dump coil rear. 51 open iso coil rear. 42 open dump coil RF AND UNKNOWN 26. any help, from you would be appreciated. also if you direct me, to what parts i would need, to get it up and running again. i am disabled and have serious neck and back problems. also bowel and other problems too. so if its not too hard to fit or do, i will try and give it a go. i was a car and bus mechanic many years ago. but these cars i'm not clued up on. when it comes to electrical. thanks for reading

 

all above sorted. i put new front wheel sensors on and it cleared the abs light. bought second hand clocks, to replace the one's the garage butchered. the limp mode, was a loose input sensor on the gearbox. i tightened it and it worked fine. but notice the thread was worn. so replaced it with a new one a few weeks later and its all ok. all the other problems disappeared, when the jobs above were done. my advice is try and sort it yourself if you can. i did mine, when the weather was nice and if i felt well enough. also stops you being ripped off, for imaginary job repairs at your local garage. if your competent enough, both are very easy fixes. hope this helps anyone out, with the same problems.