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Chrysler dealer battery testing VS Sears Auto battery testing

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  #1  
Old 02-23-2016 | 03:14 AM
kf1331's Avatar
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Default Chrysler dealer battery testing VS Sears Auto battery testing

back in 2012 I posted a problem of a weak battery error every month

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...y-month-18398/

Purchasing a Sears DieHard solved my problem.

During 2 recent oil change services at my dealer, I am notified that my DieHard failed "the Load Test" I have noticed on a few occasions when starting my van, the starter barely turns over but still starts the engine, this might happen once or twice, every three weeks. I would hook up my A/C home battery charger for about 3 hours, and then no problems for weeks.

Right after my last Dealer oil change and again notified my DieHard failing the LOAD TEST, I drive one block to the Sears Auto department to get my battery tested. I tell them of the Chrysler dealer saying the "LOAD TEST failure". Sears Auto notifies me, the battery test fine, and charges me a $20 diagnostic fee.

SO WHATS WITH ALL THIS ????
 
  #2  
Old 02-23-2016 | 04:35 AM
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Have a look at the "back in the game" thread, the last 2-3 pages. There's a bit of info in there, and also a link to the original thread by a forum member called Leedsman who looked into this quite a bit.
There's info on higher rated batteries and a modification you can make that might help too.
 
  #3  
Old 02-23-2016 | 08:35 AM
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What test ?

99% of tests are worthless, taken with a worthless measuring device designed just after horse drawn cartridges were parked up for the last time. The DieHard you fitted 3 years ago was a good spec - what was the outcome at that time when you measured for parasympathetic leak ?. At 3 years old even your new Diehard is nearing the end of its guaranteed lifespan for a modern battery.
 
  #4  
Old 02-23-2016 | 10:22 AM
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kf1331,

Search this forum for the word > lifestyle < and you will see that no battery in a modern vehicle ever made by man can withstand the 'lifestyle' you subject it to. Your options subject to having no parasympathetic loss are :

.1. An expensive solar trickle charger. Expect say 5 hours of sunshine, a 20W solar panel will generate approximately 100W*5 = 100W/h (ish) [watt-hours].

.2. A spare battery kept on a 7 stage trickle charger swapped twice a year.

.3. The car kept on a 7 stage trickle charger all year every year.

.4. Remove and reconnect battery lead each time - no alarm.

.5. Keep a NOCO jump pack ready - alarm works.

.6. Use a big red key - no alarm.

The 'car kept on a 7 stage trickle charger all year every year' can be a simple discrete Tamiya (or other type) connector sticking through the radiator grill or elsewhere. Ditto the 100A 12v big red key can be conveniently mounted through the radiator grill or even in the cab if you want to do it right - turn to the left, pop it in you pocket and you are isolated and unstart-able by a thief. It depends then on your situation my friend, if you have a secure garage or car port leave it on a trickle charger, if not select one of the other options. The NOCO is a lazy 'Martini' saviour - you know the advert - "anytime anyplace anywhere" for getting you out of trouble anywhere on your Island, just charge it twice a year or so and its like a drivers comfort blanket. Look kf1331, I'd struggled with this 'lifestyle' inflicted pain for years, there's no solution other than one like those above. Best of luck.
 

Last edited by QinteQ; 02-24-2016 at 08:29 AM. Reason: .6. possible solutions menu
  #5  
Old 02-24-2016 | 02:40 AM
kf1331's Avatar
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Default Mahalo ! (Thank you!)

for all your input. now I have lots of reading to digest.
 
  #6  
Old 02-24-2016 | 02:16 PM
shaky's Avatar
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Posts: 84
Default MAF sensor

hi guys can someone help me out here please , 2 questions 1, does the MAF communicate with the ECU so if it faulty the ECU will know , and 2 does any one have a diagram of the wiring plug and info on the voltage at each wire
 
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