Here is the Fix for My Van:

Let me state again what was going on with my van.
1. When I would get in the van to drive off the van would start and run for about 5 seconds and then cut off. I try to start it again and the same thing then about the third time it would not even turn over. No rhyme or reason to this. It started off intermittent and then became a regular thing. If I waited a few hours it typically would start.
2. I also noticed that while driving down the road (again no rhyme or reason) the instrument panel would go out. I would then slap the dash and it would come back.
This is all I knew or even understood of the issue. But fortunately my friend who lives 6hrs away was with me one time when this happened. He noticed that when this happened I didn’t have instrument lights on the panel. In essence the instrument cluster didn’t come on.
I was thinking that this was a thief issue and was something to do this the thief system. Again I know nothing about the computer system of a car.
My frienddid some research and said he thought it was a ground wire not connecting properly.

So the fix:
1. 1st My friend drove 6hrs to work on my van.
2. Then we took the dash apart to search out the ground. We figured we would start with the instrument cluster because that is where we saw the issue.
3. When we unplugged the cluster and plugged it back in and then tried to start the van she started right up. My van had sat for over a month because every time I went to start it it didn’t start. So for it to start was progress.
4. we then cut van off
5. turned the ignition switch to on – then we wiggled the instrument cluster. The instrument panel blinked off and on while wiggling.
6. pulled the instrument cluster off and then started looking at the pins and noticed the ground pin solder was cracked and the pin was loose.
7. We soldered the ground pin.
8. reconnected the cluster and wiggled - it didn’t go out.
9. We tested everything to make sure that the alarm still worked and that every time we tried to start it would start.
10. I have not had an issue with it since.

This was Saturday (June 30, 2007) and the van is still running strong. For my problem this seems to have fixed it.

I wanted to let everyone know so that this may assist them in some way.

It helps to have a friend willing to help!

 

It turns out the moderators first post was right up my ally for the repair to my van. I would suggest folks look at the pins on the connector of the instrument panel. AS I stated above mine was a broken solder on the ground pin.

 

Similar problem three strikes and its out.
I am having a similar problem with an '02 T & C. It normally starts, but occasionally, it will crank 3 x but not start, wait a 1/2 hour and it will start. I have had it into the dealer 3 x, with no luck, They can't find any codes, and can't gert it to repeat when it is in the shop. Since this car is a little newer and a different dash than the other cars mentioned in the forum, does it seem to be the same problem? A back ground on the pc board? I can't seem to find any info on a separate printed circuit board for this car, just a total instrument panel. The panel lists for about $700.
Thanks, bobmsr

 

the van u have is not the same as the 01s and below so the solder point repair is not applied to your stuff.
Do u have a gray key fat at the end? And when it does not start up do u see a little key on the dash or a red dot blinking?

 

Thanks for responding
I have the big gray key. It happens with either key, I don't remember if the red dot goes on or not.
bobmsr

 

It happened again today. The I got in the car. Moved the memory seat to my position, got in the car with my big gray key, the car started, ran for about 2 seconds and shut down, and did it again. Start and then shut down. About a half hour later my wife moved the memory seat to her positon and the car started with her big gray key. It has had the problem with both keys. The red dot does light up. Is there a immobilizer module I can replace?

 

no u cant replace it if u do the car wont start up ever. This is a dealer only issue. If u get a new immobilizer the keys haft to be programed to the car again and only a dealer scanner can do this.

 

If that is his problem. Sometimes, the problem can be deeper with the P1698 code. I just figured out an enigma on a 1998 Town & Country 3.8L and it was nerve-wracking. This is the problem I had: the code 1698, the tranny wasnt shifting (it was in 'limp home' mode), all the PRDNL lights were fully-lit up, CCD bus error or dash error 66.

I've read many posts on the above and found that there were a lot of the same problems with these minivans (and some cars), but NO ONE had a common solution. Mine was this:

there is a red/white wire on the TCM module (its on the passenger fender wall). CHECK THAT WIRE FOR BATTERY VOLTAGE. It may be in the realm of (10-12Vdc). That wire supplies a constant FUSED battery voltage (+B) to the TCM module. (I've seen/tested many Chrysler Minivans in the junkyard because of this wire); many of them had no continuity between that red/white wire and the fuse panel below the driver (seat, under dash).

To wit, the wire runs thru the driver's side fender. Yes, THRU THE FENDER; and it is a PITA to check it without removing the fender, so most tech's may think everything is all peaches and cream in there. Heck, I didnt even wanna tackle it.

Anyway, I cut the red/white wire and provided battery voltage (to the TCM) via one of the 20A fuses in the block -- as an experiment.

The instrument cluster PRNDL went back to working normally, and the tranny starting shifting the way its supposed to.

THE ROOT CAUSE:

these vehicles use a CCD bus to communicate between the PCM, TCM, BCM, etc, overhead readouts; my TCM was basically DEAD, because it had no POWER going to it; any console connected to this 'bus' can knock things off sync and make all kinds of weird and neat things happen to your minivan (eg. wipers come on while the car's off, crazy stuff); read threads on the web about P1698.

(THUS THE RED/WHITE wire Theory); the instrument cluster Theory is accurate and true, but not always the case.

 

Hi - Our '98 Town and Country 3.8L had the same kind of problem. After 3 attempts to start it, the engine would die & it would have to sit for hours before it would start and run. I realized that the built-in security system on this car was shutting the engine down. This was due to a faulty circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. Dealers wanted $100/hr for diagnostics, $407 for the part plus the labor for installation & calibration. I located a complete gauge cluster in a salvage yard & installed it myself. Total cost: $35.00! Problem was resolved, never to return.

*** NOTE*** These gauge clusters are different depending on the options installed in your vehicle and are identified by the color of the wiring harness connector on the back, so you have to find another one with the same color connector. Ours was all wheel drive, so I had to really dig to find a match (red connector.) A great resorce is CAR-PARTS.COM - it displays inventory of salvage yards across the country, and they often note the connector color.
By the way - before I resolved the issue, I foud that when our van wouldn't start I could bang on the dashboard 2 or 3 times just above the gauge cluster, it would then start and stay running. Hope this helps someone.

 

I am in the middle of this issue right now..I can't tell you how many hundreds if not thousands of dollars I have spent on my van..
I love the vehicle, do not like how it strands me in remote locations, or whenever...
naturally, there are no symptoms when I have it towed to the dealer...
this has been going on for sevefral years and is coming to the point where I don't know what to do..a garage boss told me I need to just sell it to some unwitting schmuck when it is running..I asked.."why would you advocate passing this to some other poor soul?"
I am so tired of this...