Clutch/Fork Worn Symptons???
#1
Clutch/Fork Worn Symptons???
Hi,
I have now also changed the slave/master cylinder, and now have a clutch pedal again.
But now the problem that lies is going into gears, when the car is off the gears go in, when i start and press clutch in and try putting into gear, they dont want to go in, literally have to force them in, as soon as you do this the cars starts moving almost as the clutch is not disengaging. Once again could this be the clutch fork/pivot? Is this one part or 2 and if it is worn is this the kind of problems i could be incurring? Have called Chrysler they have quoted approx £200 for the fork...
Look forward to your response, thanks
Harry
I have now also changed the slave/master cylinder, and now have a clutch pedal again.
But now the problem that lies is going into gears, when the car is off the gears go in, when i start and press clutch in and try putting into gear, they dont want to go in, literally have to force them in, as soon as you do this the cars starts moving almost as the clutch is not disengaging. Once again could this be the clutch fork/pivot? Is this one part or 2 and if it is worn is this the kind of problems i could be incurring? Have called Chrysler they have quoted approx £200 for the fork...
Look forward to your response, thanks
Harry
#2
the fork has to be really, really badly obused to be bent.
so, I really doubt that the fork is making this problems.
your clutch is not disengaging properly.
it may be becouse of the worn clutch plate, bad clutch disc, clutch cabel not adjusted or hidraulic clutch not bleeded from air.
you pick up which one, becouse it depends on the car's history and a quick check-up of the machanic.
so, I really doubt that the fork is making this problems.
your clutch is not disengaging properly.
it may be becouse of the worn clutch plate, bad clutch disc, clutch cabel not adjusted or hidraulic clutch not bleeded from air.
you pick up which one, becouse it depends on the car's history and a quick check-up of the machanic.
#3
Hi
What can happen is the release bearing wares away the fork. What I find is if you pump the clutch you can then get it in gear but the fork can hit the pressure plate because it has to go at such an angle. If you now have new clutch and hydraulics there is not much left, assuming none of what you have had fitted is faulty.
If you do get the fork and pivot you will see quite a lot of difference in the thickness of the metal were the release bearing clips on.
What can happen is the release bearing wares away the fork. What I find is if you pump the clutch you can then get it in gear but the fork can hit the pressure plate because it has to go at such an angle. If you now have new clutch and hydraulics there is not much left, assuming none of what you have had fitted is faulty.
If you do get the fork and pivot you will see quite a lot of difference in the thickness of the metal were the release bearing clips on.
#4
Mechanic is in the process of taking gearbox off again. Well the Clutch has been replaced and so has the master and slave cylinder so there should be no air in the system, the clutch pedal is also ok.
Yes Merlin when i pump the clutch is seems slightly easier to get gears in. All the parts fitted have been brand new, hoping none of them are faulty. Has anyone got images of the fork/pivot? Merlin if you could get prices that would be great.
Is anyone aware of any voyager breakers or any other place that does voyager parts, Chrysler seem to charge an arm n a leg for parts....
Thanks for your help guys!
Yes Merlin when i pump the clutch is seems slightly easier to get gears in. All the parts fitted have been brand new, hoping none of them are faulty. Has anyone got images of the fork/pivot? Merlin if you could get prices that would be great.
Is anyone aware of any voyager breakers or any other place that does voyager parts, Chrysler seem to charge an arm n a leg for parts....
Thanks for your help guys!