CRD Cutting out AGAIN!! Please help me!
#1
CRD Cutting out AGAIN!! Please help me!
Voyager 2.8 CRD Auto 2005 km 132000.
On hard acceleration the engine cutting out! (P1130)
I changed fuel filter support (haeter melted), cleaned tank (wasn't dirty), added an electric lift pump, changed the fuel rail relief valve (leaking), changed Mprop valve on the HP pump.
At cold engine is fine, but when hot, at WOT it cuts out again, not if i press the pedal to 3/4.
Instead on the highway (120-130 km/h) if i press the pedal at WOT, is fine .
I performed the injectors leak back test:
all injectors leaks the same, about 20ml/min at idle and about 30ml/min at 2500 RPM.
What can i do now?
Many thanks to who could help me!
On hard acceleration the engine cutting out! (P1130)
I changed fuel filter support (haeter melted), cleaned tank (wasn't dirty), added an electric lift pump, changed the fuel rail relief valve (leaking), changed Mprop valve on the HP pump.
At cold engine is fine, but when hot, at WOT it cuts out again, not if i press the pedal to 3/4.
Instead on the highway (120-130 km/h) if i press the pedal at WOT, is fine .
I performed the injectors leak back test:
all injectors leaks the same, about 20ml/min at idle and about 30ml/min at 2500 RPM.
What can i do now?
Many thanks to who could help me!
#3
what about the high pump iteslf , deffo sounds like the mprop is sensing too much pressure and cutting fuel supply , my car did this but when i got the car it had one of those plug in chip things and i messed around with the settings and turned it up and it cut out due to too much pressure
it can also cut out if the pressure is too low which could point to injectors of high pressure pump
it can also cut out if the pressure is too low which could point to injectors of high pressure pump
#4
I connected a voltmeter to the fuel rail pressure sensor (central wire) and i read this values:
at idle about 1,16 volt (corresponding at about 300 bar) - FINE
normal criuse 1,9-2,3 volt (corresponding 700-800 bar)
at wot it goes to 3,5 volt (1500 bar), then drops slowly to 2,8 v (1000 bar) and cuts!
If i press first at wot and then to 3/4, the pressure remain constant to 3,4 volt and the engine doesn't cuts out.
It's like if the pump can't supply to the delivery of fuel at wot: it can't hold the pressure because the quantity of fuel burned and leaked by the injectors is higher than the quantity supplied by the pump itself...
at idle about 1,16 volt (corresponding at about 300 bar) - FINE
normal criuse 1,9-2,3 volt (corresponding 700-800 bar)
at wot it goes to 3,5 volt (1500 bar), then drops slowly to 2,8 v (1000 bar) and cuts!
If i press first at wot and then to 3/4, the pressure remain constant to 3,4 volt and the engine doesn't cuts out.
It's like if the pump can't supply to the delivery of fuel at wot: it can't hold the pressure because the quantity of fuel burned and leaked by the injectors is higher than the quantity supplied by the pump itself...
#7
Hi Rodger,
You should remove the engine cover and screwed at about the middle of the fuel rail you will see the fuel pressure sensor with a 3 wire plug: strip a little part of the central wire and connect to it the positive lead of the voltemeter (the negative lead to ground). The sensor has a range from 0 to 5 volt, so set the voltmeter to read this interval. Then perform a road test and record the values at idle, normal cruise(70-80 km/h) and at wot from 50 km/h: please hold the wot for at least 15 sec (free street!) and see the voltage reading changing. T
The last test (at wot) is the most important for me.
Thank you VERY MUCH for your help!!
You should remove the engine cover and screwed at about the middle of the fuel rail you will see the fuel pressure sensor with a 3 wire plug: strip a little part of the central wire and connect to it the positive lead of the voltemeter (the negative lead to ground). The sensor has a range from 0 to 5 volt, so set the voltmeter to read this interval. Then perform a road test and record the values at idle, normal cruise(70-80 km/h) and at wot from 50 km/h: please hold the wot for at least 15 sec (free street!) and see the voltage reading changing. T
The last test (at wot) is the most important for me.
Thank you VERY MUCH for your help!!