CRD oil filter loose
#1
CRD oil filter loose
Just a quick question for all you CRD owners.
On my 2004 2.8CRD I have done 2 oil changes so far, both times using a generic canister type oil filter. (one was a Fram)
Both times the filter has worked loose. First time it was hand tight and it was loose in a month/1000 miles (a few drops of oil on the drive everytime it was started). I retightened it up with my filter wrench as much as I could without crushing the filter, and it worked loose after 10 months/8000 miles.
At the next oil change i tightened the filter up good and tight with the wrench and it too was loose after 8 months.
I think I'll use a Mopar filter next time to see if that makes a difference, but have any of you experienced this?
On my 2004 2.8CRD I have done 2 oil changes so far, both times using a generic canister type oil filter. (one was a Fram)
Both times the filter has worked loose. First time it was hand tight and it was loose in a month/1000 miles (a few drops of oil on the drive everytime it was started). I retightened it up with my filter wrench as much as I could without crushing the filter, and it worked loose after 10 months/8000 miles.
At the next oil change i tightened the filter up good and tight with the wrench and it too was loose after 8 months.
I think I'll use a Mopar filter next time to see if that makes a difference, but have any of you experienced this?
#2
2005 2.8 CRD
I just changed my oil filter.
Last time my filter was changed ( 9000 miles ago) I got a local garage to do it since I didn't have proper ramps (I did fuel, air and cabin filter). The guy who did it isn't big but has forearms like tree trunks! So I was half expecting it to be really tight. It wasn't, wouldn't describe it as anywhere near loose. It came off fairly easily, but I had bought myself an oil filter wrench, the type that fits on the end of the filter (basically a big but shallow socket). I think if I had tried a chain or strap wrench it would have been a bit of a struggle, confined space etc.
Odd thing is the rubber sealing ring was stuck to the engine block, it had come out of the recess in the filter, never had that happen on the other cars I service. Also on tightening the filter it seemed to screw on a lot further, after the sealing ring had contacted the engine block. My experience is (on other cars) once the sealing ring is in contact with the block, another half turn is about it. This one seemed to take a lot more to get to the 20 NM torque. Thicker/softer rings maybe?
Anyway, no leaks. Both filters (new and old) were Mahle OC 247 obtained from a Chysler dealer. Can't remember what I paid last time, but this one was £8 something incl sump washer, cheaper than Ebay! Apparently Mahl is the direct Mopar equivalent according to the dealer.
I would thoroughly recommend the oil filter wrench, makes things so much easier, it's 14 flutes/74mm cost £9.99 from "Thetoolacademy", (laser part no 3081 I think!) it's very shallow and there is space to use a normal 1/2"" ratchet with it.
Booke23
I think you were asking about bleeding the fuel system after changing the fuel filter. Last time I didn't bleed it and it caused me problems. This time I did it better!. Just change the filter (2.8 CRD with fuel filter on front of engine block) attach plastic tubing to bleed nipple (top left of fuel filter housing) open nipple (about 1 turn, 11mm spanner) and pump the priming pump (top right) untill fuel flows and close nipple. I gave a few more pumps untill the plunger goes hard. I found it easier to remove the 3 bolts and move the power steering resovoir to one side. Engine started fine, then missed slightly for a second or so and then normal.
Can anyone tell me if there should be an engine cover in the near side wheel arch? I have a bottom cover (that you remove for servicing) its attached by (3 bolts) to the chassis at the front and to a vertical cover in the offside wheel arch (2 bolts) and 1 bolt to a metal hanger at the rear, near side, but there is no cover in the near side wheel arch. It sort of looks like there should be, there's a hole on the bottom cover half way along, mirroring the other side, but nothing to bolt to!
I just changed my oil filter.
Last time my filter was changed ( 9000 miles ago) I got a local garage to do it since I didn't have proper ramps (I did fuel, air and cabin filter). The guy who did it isn't big but has forearms like tree trunks! So I was half expecting it to be really tight. It wasn't, wouldn't describe it as anywhere near loose. It came off fairly easily, but I had bought myself an oil filter wrench, the type that fits on the end of the filter (basically a big but shallow socket). I think if I had tried a chain or strap wrench it would have been a bit of a struggle, confined space etc.
Odd thing is the rubber sealing ring was stuck to the engine block, it had come out of the recess in the filter, never had that happen on the other cars I service. Also on tightening the filter it seemed to screw on a lot further, after the sealing ring had contacted the engine block. My experience is (on other cars) once the sealing ring is in contact with the block, another half turn is about it. This one seemed to take a lot more to get to the 20 NM torque. Thicker/softer rings maybe?
Anyway, no leaks. Both filters (new and old) were Mahle OC 247 obtained from a Chysler dealer. Can't remember what I paid last time, but this one was £8 something incl sump washer, cheaper than Ebay! Apparently Mahl is the direct Mopar equivalent according to the dealer.
I would thoroughly recommend the oil filter wrench, makes things so much easier, it's 14 flutes/74mm cost £9.99 from "Thetoolacademy", (laser part no 3081 I think!) it's very shallow and there is space to use a normal 1/2"" ratchet with it.
Booke23
I think you were asking about bleeding the fuel system after changing the fuel filter. Last time I didn't bleed it and it caused me problems. This time I did it better!. Just change the filter (2.8 CRD with fuel filter on front of engine block) attach plastic tubing to bleed nipple (top left of fuel filter housing) open nipple (about 1 turn, 11mm spanner) and pump the priming pump (top right) untill fuel flows and close nipple. I gave a few more pumps untill the plunger goes hard. I found it easier to remove the 3 bolts and move the power steering resovoir to one side. Engine started fine, then missed slightly for a second or so and then normal.
Can anyone tell me if there should be an engine cover in the near side wheel arch? I have a bottom cover (that you remove for servicing) its attached by (3 bolts) to the chassis at the front and to a vertical cover in the offside wheel arch (2 bolts) and 1 bolt to a metal hanger at the rear, near side, but there is no cover in the near side wheel arch. It sort of looks like there should be, there's a hole on the bottom cover half way along, mirroring the other side, but nothing to bolt to!
#3
Thanks for that Roger.
I'll get my filter from the dealer next time. I think I paid about £8 for the pattern filter and i didn't get a sump washer with it!
I was asking about fuel system bleeding last year. My 2004 2.8 has the paper element type fuel filter next to the fuel tank under the car(which I dislike, as its hard to get to and messy to replace) After you change this type of filter you just have to turn the ignition on which activates the lift pump for a few seconds. Repeat this about 10 times and the system is purged of all air.
My Voyager does not have a cover on the near side wheel arch. It has one on the offside, so I suppose they must not have bothered with a cover on the transmission end. (cost saving measure as there are no rubber belts etc to protect on that end?)
I'll get my filter from the dealer next time. I think I paid about £8 for the pattern filter and i didn't get a sump washer with it!
I was asking about fuel system bleeding last year. My 2004 2.8 has the paper element type fuel filter next to the fuel tank under the car(which I dislike, as its hard to get to and messy to replace) After you change this type of filter you just have to turn the ignition on which activates the lift pump for a few seconds. Repeat this about 10 times and the system is purged of all air.
My Voyager does not have a cover on the near side wheel arch. It has one on the offside, so I suppose they must not have bothered with a cover on the transmission end. (cost saving measure as there are no rubber belts etc to protect on that end?)
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