Driver Window will not operate
#12
07-27-2007 | 02:56 PM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
RE: Driver Window will not operate
chrysler= 12 month, 12k mile warranty, $100
autozone= lifetime warranty, $75
If this is a quality of motor issue, maybe I'll have to put a couple in to find a good one, I made that decision for the sake of the warranty/cost savings.
This seems to be a common problem on that van, so I waswonderingif anybody found another cause besides bad motors.
Thanks for the input,
Trevor
autozone= lifetime warranty, $75
If this is a quality of motor issue, maybe I'll have to put a couple in to find a good one, I made that decision for the sake of the warranty/cost savings.
This seems to be a common problem on that van, so I waswonderingif anybody found another cause besides bad motors.
Thanks for the input,
Trevor
#14
08-07-2007 | 11:26 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 12
From:
RE: Driver Window will not operate
I was able to fix my window motor. Cost 0. Time about 30 minutes - less than what it would take to replace the whole window regulator.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
#15
09-23-2007 | 02:17 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 10
RE: Driver Window will not operate
This worked for me as well!! I just purchased a 2002 T&C EX and the driver's side window was not working. After searching several different websites, I found your method below and figured it would be worth a try before spending the $$ on a new motor. Now the window is working perfectly, and it cost me $0 for the repair. Thanks for the useful info, now I need to work on the driver side sliding door lock that is not working properly.
ORIGINAL: magneticred
I was able to fix my window motor. Cost 0. Time about 30 minutes - less than what it would take to replace the whole window regulator.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
I was able to fix my window motor. Cost 0. Time about 30 minutes - less than what it would take to replace the whole window regulator.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
#16
11-04-2008 | 12:15 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6
RE: Driver Window will not operate
WoooHoooo! i fixed mine as well!!! Thanks soo much!
Getting the door off my 2001 was a bit tricky. I could do it now in a few minutes. Took 3 screws out (door handle, bottom, door pulling cup).
Started popping the door pieceloose all the way around the door.
Detached all the electrical connectors, (pull out the red slider (position assurancelock) half way out on the big green connector then disconnect the big green connector)
then removed the plastic attachment tothe mechanical door latch by rotating the plastic part 90° off the metal rod.
I followed the directions above and got it working great again!!!
this is the 2nd save this forum has made me (I have fixed theturn signal switch issue in the steering column). Now i need to fix that stupid temp sensor on the rear lift gate, do something about the jaded drivers mirror that the auto-dim has messed up, fix the "check engine light" due to a catalyst issue and i am good to go again! (as long as my wife is done running into things)
all of you guys (and gals) rock!!!!
Getting the door off my 2001 was a bit tricky. I could do it now in a few minutes. Took 3 screws out (door handle, bottom, door pulling cup).
Started popping the door pieceloose all the way around the door.
Detached all the electrical connectors, (pull out the red slider (position assurancelock) half way out on the big green connector then disconnect the big green connector)
then removed the plastic attachment tothe mechanical door latch by rotating the plastic part 90° off the metal rod.
I followed the directions above and got it working great again!!!
this is the 2nd save this forum has made me (I have fixed theturn signal switch issue in the steering column). Now i need to fix that stupid temp sensor on the rear lift gate, do something about the jaded drivers mirror that the auto-dim has messed up, fix the "check engine light" due to a catalyst issue and i am good to go again! (as long as my wife is done running into things)
all of you guys (and gals) rock!!!!
#17
12-27-2008 | 12:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 8
From:
RE: Driver Window will not operate
Kevin,
Will your procedure work for a '97 T&C LXi also? I have this issue with the drivers side door power window - not sure if it warranted a new thread.
Thx
JR in OH
Will your procedure work for a '97 T&C LXi also? I have this issue with the drivers side door power window - not sure if it warranted a new thread.
Thx
JR in OH
ORIGINAL: CHRYSLER TECH [ol][*]Remove the plug and remove screw attaching door pull cup to inner door panel.[*]Remove switch bezel and disconnect power window/memory switch.[*]Remove screws attaching trim panel to door from below map pocket.[*]If equipped, remove window crank. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR - FRONT/WINDOW CRANK - REMOVAL)[*]Remove screw holding door trim to door panel from behind inside latch release handle .[*]Disengage clips attaching door trim to door frame around perimeter of panel.[*]Lift trim panel upward to disengage flange from inner belt molding at top of door.[*]Tilt top of trim panel away from door to gain access to latch linkage.[*]Disengage clip attaching linkage rod to inside latch release handle (INSIDE DOOR HANDLE LINKAGE).[*]Separate linkage rod from latch handle.[*]Disconnect the power door switch, courtesy lamp electrical connectors.[*]Remove front door trim panel from vehicle. [/ol]
#19
12-10-2010 | 06:19 PM
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 34
Amazing!!!!!
Just fixed my '03 T&C driver's side window with this. It runs up and down just like it was brand new. Took about 10 minutes once I got the panel and everything else off.
Thanks!!!!
Just fixed my '03 T&C driver's side window with this. It runs up and down just like it was brand new. Took about 10 minutes once I got the panel and everything else off.
Thanks!!!!
I was able to fix my window motor. Cost 0. Time about 30 minutes - less than what it would take to replace the whole window regulator.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
After removing the door panel and lifting the inner liner you will see the window motor and cables bolted to the inside of the door by 3 torx screws (torx 30). Loosen the torx screws enough to remove the two phillips screws that attach the metal housing that contains the armature and magnets from the rest of the device. There are two nuts that slide in small slots. Be sure to watch if they fall out. They can be easily reinserted. The metal housing with the armature attached to the screw portion of the worm drive will now be easy to remove. You will now see two braided copper hoops sticking out from the point where the metal housing came off. These are the problem. They can get caught in the armature. Push them back away from the brushes and where the armature spins. Now take the armature and screw drive out from the magnets and housing. Put the screw portion of the motor back into the worm gear and turn a few times so that it screws in. The metal housing with the magnets will now slide right back on. Tighten the two phillips screws. Tighten the torx screws (you may need to reach behind to the rubber portion they screw into to keep it from turning). Put the panel back on - don't forget toreconnect the electrical connections and door handle. Now you are done. Oh, by the way, the phillips screws are on tight - I used a vise-grip to loosen them.
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