These instructions apply to my 2006 Chrysler Town and Country with the 3.8L V6. YMMV.

Main: How to remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve
Supplemental: How to remove serpentine belt
Supplemental: How to remove alternator

Some have claimed you can remove the EGR valve without removing the alternator. I don’t think it’s possible. (Don’t post saying you’ve done this; post the video if you want me to believe it :-) Here’s the problem. You are not able to square up a 10mm socket on the lower EGR bolt with the alternator in place. This has nothing to do with a U-joint or wobble extension; it has to do with getting the socket correctly on the bolt head. I used the thinnest ¼” drive socket that I had, and it wouldn’t square up. Those EGR bolts are very snug and I’m sure I would have rounded off the bolt head trying to remove it with the alternator in the way. (When you search, you’ll see a lot of people indicating they had to drill out the bolt, and this is why.)

To remove the EGR valve you need to remove the alternator (maybe my van has a different alternator that places it in the way of the EGR bolt, who knows?)

From underneath the van, remove the plastic splash shield on the passenger side. There are four “Christmas tree” fasteners to pull out. I use end nippers to grab under the “head” and pull them out. This gives you access to the front of the engine to remove the belt and alternator.

From underneath the van, use a ½” drive breaker bar to move the tensioner such that the serpentine belt can be removed. Note: don’t put a socket on the bolt that’s visible, put your ½” drive into the opening to the left of the bolt (see image 1980) Rotate the tensioner down to release pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the alternator.


From underneath the van, you can see two of the three 15mm bolts holding the alternator bracket on. In this image (image 1982) the lower bolt is not visible but easily accessible.


Loosen the lower bolt, but don’t remove it. Remove the upper bolt (15mm). From on top of the engine, you can see the third bolt (image 1983). Remove that bolt.


Now, you can tilt the alternator toward the front of the van and out of the way (on the loose lower bolt).

Remove the electrical connector from the EGR valve by sliding the red locking pin to the right, and then pressing the latch and pulling the connector out toward the front of the van.

Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the EGR tube onto the EGR valve. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the head (I did use a wobble extension here for the lower bolt). The EGR valve bolts are likely very tight. I used a pipe over my ratchet for some extra leverage.

The EGR valve to head uses a thin metal gasket while the EGR valve to tube uses a traditional “cork” gasket. My new EGR valve included both gaskets and new bolts. My EGR valve was an Airtec/Wells from Rock Auto ($80 shipped) part number 4F1904 [fast shipping!] http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4968

This isn’t a 30 minute job; from hood up to down, it took me the better part of a morning.

As many others have reported, EGR valve failure is very common on Chryslers. My van had 50K on it when the code (P0406) first appeared.

 

HAHA i did one today infact used a 1/4 swivel 10mm Snapon the only one that is strong enough to do the job I might add. 1/4 3 inch extension a 1/4 to 3/4 adapter then 3/4 ratchet do this all day long took me 5 min

 

You're a better mechanic than I am.

How much does your dealership charge to change an EGR valve?

 

I have no idea 2 hours and about 130 for the part I think.

 

I was able to replace the EGR valve using 10mm socket. I removed the bolts on the tube on top and the top bolt of the EGR which were easy to get at. I then use a bar to gently pry and rotate the EGR valve and also used a bar to apply pressure on the ratchet and 10 mm socket. By gently prying the EGR valve and rotating it, and applying pressure on the ratchet to hold it on the bolt, I was able to loosen the bolt. Don't apply too much pressure on the bolt or I fugure you will snap the bolt off. This worked for me. Also use a MM tap to clean out the holes once you get the bolts out. It made it easier to get the bolts back in.

 

I back out the lower front (of vehicle) alt bolt and remove the upper left alt bolt. Take a prybar and move the alt about 1/2" forward and you have plenty of room to get the bottom EGR bolt. I don't like to fight...even if the job takes me an extra 5 minutes who cares? However, i've run into alternators that are no problem with just a wobble socket and not have to move the alt.

 

I found that on my vehicle (2005 T&C 3.8L) I could loosen both bolts that secure the EGR valve to the head (using a 1/4" drive 10mm socket on the lower bolt). I could easily remove the upper bolt, but the lower bolt hit the alternator before it could be fully unscrewed. Therefore there was NO WAY that the lower bolt could be removed without moving the alternator. I loosened the lower two bolts holding the alternator, removed the upper alternator bolt, and pried the alternator forward, allowing for plenty of room to remove the lower EGR bolt. No need to remove the belt. (I couldn't get a breaker bar into the 1/2" square hole in the tensioner - there was not enough clearance). Bit of a pain in the rear, but do-able.

 

I own an '05 T&C, 3.8L, which I just replaced my EGR valve on. Yes the bottom bolt did hit the alternator, but ... where there is a will, there is a way. Did not have to mess with taking the alternator off and the new EGR is in place and working fine.

 

This is an interesting YouTube video. Apparently, this a common problem with T&C:

P0406 Dodge EGR Diagnostics, Repair, Cause and Fix - YouTube

Thanks for the posts. I am going to replace my ERG valve when the weather gets cooler.

BTW, according to the video, the alternator doesn't have to be removed on a 2005 T&C.

Tom

 

Are you kidding..??????

In almost 30 years of doing this, I have NEVER scoped an EGR solenoid, Ive never put it in an Oven, and I will Never , ever Again, Use a WELLS product.....

For those of you who are familiar with Lab scopes......Please Tell me when youve EVER seen a PERFECT SQUARE WAVE with A LOAD CONNECTED...Be it good or bad....

Its NOT POSSIBLE.......Its a SOLENOID....It USES CURRENT...It should Rise , PEAK AND FALL.... BUT, WHAT they show IS A PERFECT SQUARE WAVE.......

THEY ARE LYING TO YOU........