so i have posted a few posts about gremlins in my electrical system so am going to clean all the contacts as i can see oxidation and i no that wont help my question is will Wurth Contact OL Oxidation Solvent be ok and whats the best way to do it

 

Could very well do the trick.. but I would disconnect the battery first and let the treated contacts dry up again before reconnecting the battery.

 

I'm assuming 05 2.8CRD

The battery disconnection & removal would have to happen first. Otherwise s/he would never get at the worst offender - the IPM. The O/P might want to know that its 'under' the IPM where the real problems are, its here that all the cars brains and every other other every function on the car exchange information. Battery off / unclip IPM / swing up and left to where the battery was / sort [see below] from there ..........



- example under IPM plug corrosion



If you want to go more into the multi layer PCB that is the IPM

I'm assuming 05 2.8CRD

The battery disconnection & removal would have to happen first. Otherwise s/he would never get at the worst offender - the IPM. The O/P might want to know that its 'under' the IPM where the real problems are, its here that all the cars brains and every other other function exchange information. Battery off / unclip IPM / swing up and left to where the battery was / sort from there ..........



- example under IPM plug corrosion



If you want to go deeper into the layered PCB that is the IPM

- pull all bottom connectors
- remove all fuses and relays
- 4 clips expose the PCB
- then at that point close inspection on all pins and traces
- will expose any cakka, verdigris, sheared pis etc

 

Couldn't agree more with the above; it's more important to get the oxidization out of the way from contacts, and often the only way is to pull the plug in and out a number of times to clear it that way, since it's impossible with many to get any kind of abrasive onto the contacts, be it fine carborundum paper, fine steel wool etc. The "contact-cleaner" merely isolates the metal from the air so further oxidization is limited. In UK "Electrolube"* has always been the one to use, but I've also used WD40 and similar to good effect.
The underbonnet/underhood area is an unfortunate place to have PCBs with contacts as it's pretty hostile with heat, fumes, and esp. near the battery with sulphuric acid fumes around. A much better place is inside the car.

Leedsman.
*Electrolube was first produced for lubricating valve contact pins on the base where they fitted the valveholder. Here valves means thermionic valves, those amplifying tubes prior to transistors. It was fearsomely expensive and we as apprentices were firmly told to be economical with it -- but it certainly worked. It did what it said on the tin. Electrolube should be available from Maplins and Radiospares.

Leedsman.

 

When I used to work with 110volt battery packs weighting several tons we cleaned the cable and battery contacts, bolted up and covered bare surfaces in petroleum jelly, or Vaseline to prevent corrosion setting in. But this is advised for car battery connections anyway I suppose.

 

hi the car is a 2005 3.3 petrol