Oops, apologies.

I've spoken to my local dealer and he gave me a part number of 0510 352 8EA for the oil (£7.25 per litre) but didn't know the specification of this oil. Do you know if this part number matches the spec you are suggesting?

 

Just read through this whole thread again and I just want to clarify - am I better using a 10w40 engine oil (such as Magnatec) in the manual gearbox (for my 2.5CRD) and changing it every 18,000 miles, or should I stick to GL4 spec gearbox oil?

 

If you read this thread in its entirety you will surely have noted that from the outset I specified that it was for specifically and only the 1996-2000 models which are NON CRD.

The ATF+4 information I gave you comes straight from Chryslers own service manual which you can download for yourself from here

http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/m...ice%20Manuals/

Hence why I stated that you should call them. Now you have done that and they have quoted you NV-T350 manual transmission fluid, why I do not know perhaps it has superseded the original spec. Either way they built the car and if that's what they are telling you then I suggest you heed their advice. The price they have quoted you is pretty darn cheap as you cannot buy GL4 for that.

As I do not own one of your versions I am not prepared to advise further, maybe one of the Chrysler techs on here are. With my car I am prepared to experiment and provide feedback on my findings however I am not prepared to play guess work on someone else's car.

Best of luck.

 

I was trying to clarify as I only got a part number (not a grade/type of oil) from the Chrysler dealer. However, just to confirm, I have rung Chrysler UK and asked them - they have advised 5w/30 or 10w/30 oil based on my registration number.

 

Glad you got that sorted. I have been doing some research and it would appear that ATF+4 and NV-T350 both have viscosities of 5W-30, so there you go.

 

glowplug, you have recently changed you clutch, what sort of a job was it and how long did it take ya. i have a fully equiped work shop, it looks like quite an easy job, any problems i should look out for.
many thanks colin

 

Spoke to another dealer a few days ago - they said ATF+4 (wish they'd all sort out their stories) so I've ordered 3 litres of this (£6 per litre - pretty good I reckon) and will see how it goes. I reckoned on the basis that it can't do any harm, and if it doesn't change smoothly, THEN I'll go for engine oil. Will let you know :-)

 

Howdy Colin, well ONCE I found the hidden bolt behind the rear engine mount bracket it was straight forward. Tell you mate I was convinced I had taken them all off and that the box was stuck. But then I went away, had a rest and came back for a fresh look and found the bugger.

Now the reason it was a pain is because it is double sided. So you take off the top nut which grips the bracket but then the other side goes through the engine into the bell housing. To help you you will find it in the area below the starter motor close to the vehicle speed sensor.

Also note the Starter motor does NOT need to come off and the gear change cables are just push fit with rubber bungs so just push them off. The half shafts just pop out. BUT and here is the BIG but you MUST mark the relation between the steering knuckle and your suspension strut with white paint and make 100% sure you put them back perfectly otherwise the tracking will go out. The camber is set using the strut and some cars have a cambered bolt on the lower hole (mine did not).

Ok so here's the other thing if you are changing the clutch because it is not disengaging or you are getting a judder in reverse be advised that it may not actually be the clutch. Incorrect oil in the gearbox will cause the judder and failure to disengage or stiff changes even when hot can be a failure in the master / slave cylinders.

 

You should be fine and yes Chrysler UK and their various agents seem to be a bit clueless. I have more than once phoned 4 - 5 different agents including Chrysler UK to ask questions and have had 4 - 5 different answers. The ATF+4 should be fine BUT remember to change it at least every 18 - 20K miles.

As I stated previously engine oil and ATF do not have the pressure additives required for longevity in gearboxes. Whilst ATF is obviously a transmission fluid it is formulated for a very different application and most Auto transmission also call for regular oil changes for the same reason. As such they break down relatively quickly. To be honest if I had your car I personally would use Amsoil MTF, but note I am not making a recommendation, just saying what I would use.

 

Thanks Glowplug - changing the oil regularly is the one thing that everyone agrees on, so it's definitely going to be an annual thing (equates to about 15,000 miles). May well consider the Amsoil - depends on how smooth the ATF runs. Thanks for your patience on this.