you MUST mark the relation between the steering knuckle and your suspension strut with white paint and make 100% sure you put them back perfectly otherwise the tracking will go out.

cant i just pop the lower ball joints????? thus not needing to undo the shocks, they do however sound the same as the mk1and 2 golf wow showing my age now those were the days
thanks glowplug all going ahead say.
as for the reason for changing it, it slips like made, it is how ever tight in 1st n second gear, it also has a leaking rear main seal god this was a good bye wernt it lol
ill keep ya all informed
thanks

 

Dude, sticky in first and second.....well welcome to these CRAP gearboxes (made by GETRAC incidentally NOT Chrysler) . Don't expect miracles on this front once you have changed the clutch, most likely reason is the synchro hubs are going bye bye.

Yes with regard to the half shafts I suppose if you use a pry bar to disconnect the wishbone from the steering knuckle along with the tie rod end then you should have enough movement to get the CV out. I had to change my struts anyway hence why I took the route I did.

The slipping is probably due to the oil coming from the crank seal. Must admit I was stupid. I did my clutch during that seriously cold spell we had and was in a hurry so didn't change the crank seal. Now I need to take the damn thing off again to do them as I have noticed a drip :-(

 

bugger at least it dont slip now,or leak oil it also seams the slave cylinder is knackered as my bites low an spongy. any ideas how much

 

Had the gearbox oil changed at the weekend, and have to say that it seems a bit easier when it's cold (today was the first cold day since), so looks like it was ready for a change. Garage did say that it seems to have been well maintained - previous owners claim of new cambelt looks true, and the fuel filter was virtually new (but changed it anyway since I had provided a new one) so I'm happy now - especially since the service cost me less than £50 including VAT for the labour.

One thing still is a slight oil leak - I thought it might be from the gearbox, but he says it's coming from the intercooler - seems to be (if I understood correctly) condensing the oil fumes from the engine and then they are dripping down - nothing really to be done about this apparently, but has anyone heard of this before?

 

Great news on the gearbox...see nothing like a good oil change.

As for the oil in the intercooler, don't know so much on that explanation but perhaps Merlin could comment as he works on these all the time.

I am not so sure where exactly the oil fumes would be coming from. For a start diesel is an oil not an alcohol like petrol and actually has a higher boiling point than water which as you know at sea level is 100 degrees celcius. So obviously an engine gets hotter than this BUT the diesel is injected directly into the combustion chamber and goes nowhere near the turbo.

Air is drawn into the engine via the air filter housing, it then passes to the turbo wear it is compressed and accelerated. From here it goes to the intercooler where it is cooled to make it denser, denser air contains more oxygen and then it is forced into the combustion chamber via the inlet manifold and intake valves. Here it is compressed again, by a factor of more than 20. This heats it up and towards the top of the piston stroke when the air is at its hottest diesel is injected which then due to the heat of the air combusts.

So in that little cycle I would really like to know where exactly the condensing vapours find there way to the intercooler.

NOW it is true that a mixture of vapours exist in the crank case. These are partially due to heated oil but mainly due to combustion gases that bypass the compression and scraper rings on the pistons. In the past these were simply vented into the atmosphere via the crankcase breather but due to stringent emissions they are now drawn into the combustion chamber via the inlet manifold using something called the PCV valve or positive crankcase ventilation. As these are sucked in as part of the vacuum created by the pistons and indeed forced by the turbo I still can't quite see how they would find their way to the intercooler unless something wasn't sealing properly.

I have 2 diesels and have no evidence of this happening.

What I can tell you is that these cars both yours and mine suffer from weak rear crankshaft seals so if it is in the locality of the gearbox it might be this. Otherwise it could be leaking down from something like the rocker cover gasket and just via capillary action finding its way to the intercooler pipe.

 

Thanks GP - I got the impression he was talking about engine oil, rather than diesel fuel, but I must admit, I've never had this before, though I've only ever had one TD before. Capilliary action with a small leak does seem to be far more plausible. Maybe I just need the leak to get a bit worse to track it down.

 

Everything I mentioned above was to do with both engine oil AND diesel taking both possible sources into account.


Best thing to do is give the engine a damn good steam clean. A clean engine is the best thing you could possibly have.

1. It allows the engine to run cooler and last longer. Dirt acts like a jersey and traps the heat in.

2. It makes finding oil leaks SOOOOO much easier.

Have a good compresser available to blow out all the electrical contacts though otherwise you will get missing especially if it gets into your 1st injector sensor.

 

Trying to bleed clutch on my voyager. Cannot find a grub screw or alan key on the slave cylinder, mine is a 2.5 CRD? any ideas?

 

just had the main outer lay shaft bearing break up on my 2000 voyager 2.5td after car had only done 50k miles, had been full service history on car and had gear box oil changed 1500 miles earlier. looks like one of the ***** fractured and ripped up the metal cage holding the ***** in place, managed to do another 500 miles before making screeching noise and seizing up. any one know where i can by new bearing?

 

Hi all
As very happy owner of a 12 year old 2.5TD, I have to say that after reading through the forum regarding all the troubles mentioned on all models, I can`t help thinking that the 96-2000 models are the best of the lot! Gearboxes may well be iffy but that said, mine has done 135 000 before the need of surgery! I`ve just bought a brand new engine for it after getting some silly quotes for the repair of the blown head gasket. (No point having one head gasket changed at £750 only to have another go. By the time the third one has gone that`s the cost of the new engine!) So,before installing the new lump, I had the gearbox inspected. A very nice man called Dave at Gravesend Transmissions opened it up and sure enough ,the syncro rings had had it. that woud explain stiff action when cold and double de cluch when coming down through the gears. New syncros and ,whilst he was at it new bearings, I should now be in a state of silky gearchange heaven that my grand children will shed a tear at the retelling! ). I mentioned the chrysler forum to him and the suggested oil that everybody on here seems to recomend and he advised two possible alternatives. ATF Dextron or TRX. The latter being used by and manufactured by Renault and the former which is used in BMW M series and Porche. Both of which are reasonably cheap. Another thing which nobody seems to have mentioned on the forum is the use of additives of the after market variety rather than those already present in atf and gear oils. During my biking days there used to be some stuff called superlube ( Anybody heard of that?) . Now , this stuff was used in helicopter gearboxes during the Vietnam war, the main pupose being that bullet holes in the gearbox casing would mean getting up close and personal with Charlie , so even with an empty gearbox , they could remain airbourne for half an hour before ditching. I used this stuff in a yamaha FJ1200 and had to turn the idle speed down a touch because of the reduced friction and it doubled the life of the oil. ( still clear through the site glass many thousands of miles later). Motorycycles share the engine oil with the gearbox and the clutch and there was no clutch slip either! I don`t know why that woud be as oil on a clutch is not good! anybody have any thoughts on additives?