Hi Guys, I am new to this forum and rather inexperienced in relation to motor mechanics. I have recently bought a 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager Limited XS 2.8crd. I have had the timing belt changed as well as the auto transmission fluid but still have the engine oil and filter to change as I do not know when it was last done. Would it be possible, in mirror image to my limited expertise, for someone to give me step by step instructions on how to change the engine oil and engine oil filter as I would like to give this a go myself. I know you all probably think this is a bit of a lame question but would rather get some guidance before I begin. Thanks in advance.

 

Oil change is not too bad a task

Take the car for a run to get the oil nice and warm.

Jack the front of the car up and put it on proper axle stands, not bricks or a piece of wood. Place the axle stands on firm,level ground and make sure they are supporting a solid part of the car, not just the floor pan but something structural.

There is a plastic tray that covers the underneath of the engine, in the middle of it there is a round plastic grommet about 3" in diameter. Pull this out and behind it is the sump drain plug. From memory you will need an 8 or 10mm allen key to undo it.

Steal the washing up bowl from the kitchen sink or another suitable plastic container - make sure it will fit under the car and hold at least 10 litres and remember that you will never be able to use it for anything other than oil again.

Place the container under the sump and undo the drain plug. Note the drain plug is usually quite tight and can take a bit of force to undo. Most people way over tighten them. If you do this on a windy day then it's surprising how much the wind can affect the flow of oil out of the engine and make a mess of the driveway. Go and have a cup of tea while the oil drains out.

The oil filter is at the rear of the engine and accessed from underneath. Again the oil filter will be tight and you will probably not be able to unscrew it by hand. I use something similar to this 2pc Strap Belt Wrench Spanner OIL Filter Pipe Pump REMOVER REMOV

A bit more oil will come out when you unscrew the filter, so be prepared for it. Take the new filter and smear a bit of clean oil around the rubber gasket on it's face and screw it in. Only tighten the filter by hand. Don't strain yourself when tightening it, but it needs to be firm.

Take the sump plug bolt and give it a wipe clean with a bit of tissue and make sure there is no grit stuck around the washer. Give the sump drain hole a quick wipe. The official line is that you should replace the washer on the sump plug, but I never do. Refit the sump plug. Again, don't strain yourself in tightening it up, but it does need to be firm.

Check the manual for the required amount and type of oil. Don't buy really cheap oil but also top of the range synthetic is way overpriced for what it is. If you know someone who has a Costco card then they do oil at a reasonable price.

Drop the car off of the jacks and put about 3/4 of the oil in through the filler cap on top of the engine. Start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds - this will get the oil into the filter. Turn the car off and top up the oil checking the dispstick level until it's between the min and max marks.
Again, start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds and then turn off and recheck the level on the dipstick.

And thats about it!

Regards

Richard

 

Thats great tfb... thanks for thoes clear instructions, I appreciate your help. I will give this a go when the weather gets better and let you know how I get on. Thanks again!!

 

Which oil type for the 2.8 crd? My service is due (belts just done), oil left to do.
I think last time i used 10W40

 

Excellent advice here: I would only add one extra, and that is to use a full synthetic engine oil on any motor that uses a turbocharger. The turbo's bearings run very hot (as it's working in the diesel exhaust which can actually run at 900*C during long uphill gradients). Under these conditions, mineral oil can easily "coke-up", ruining the turbo. and ruining your bank account at the same time. Synthetic is the only oil used for jet engines.

There are TWO types of synthetic. The best is PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) and naturally the most expensive. The cheaper version is "hydro-cracked" i.e. made out of mineral.

Pure advice -- if you've been belting it along the motorway for a good while and you pull into a service station for a cup of tea, don't turn off your engine immediately, let it idle for a minute or two while the turbo bearings cool down under the forced oil pressure.

Leedsman.

 

Allowing the turbo to cool is always pretty good advice. Anyone would think Leedsman was an aircraft mechanic!

 

I would agree that a "True" synth oil like Motul Ester and double Ester oils are one of the best on the market! I've used a 5w-30 grade in my 2007 XS oil burner. But Hydro-cracked oils like Mobil 1 and Castrol EDGE are also good oils.

I've found that if you hunt around you can buy Ester oils cheaper than these cracked hydro-carbon oils that spend a fortune on advertising to keep a market share.

I used this- Motul Specific dexos2 5W30 GM - OPEL - 100% synthetic lubricant designed for GM, OPEL and SAAB models fitted with gasoline or turbo diesel direct injection engines. in my van when they were selling it for £15 for a 5L can! Bought loads of the stuff as it was a steal...