immobiliser problem.
#1
05-19-2012 | 11:33 AM
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immobiliser problem.
grand voyager 3.3LE 1998 but registered 2001 in the UK.
since picking up this car a few months ago i have had a 'lock out' problem and the key fob (which DOES work) has never operated the locks (receiver problem?). i haven't worked out what causes the lock out but when it happens i'm usually driving after recently setting off. the dashboard loses all dials, mileage counter and gear selection display. i'm then driving 'blind' with no idea of speed until i pull over. when i do and turn the ignition off, it's usually possible to turn the engine over for a second or so before it cuts out. if i leave the car for ten minutes it will restart normally.
i now have a variation on this problem. the car did not 'reset' when this happened yesterday and so i removed the neutral on the battery, assuming that would reset any computer glitch or relay held in place. reconnecting the neutral, the alarm on the dash sounded and the alarm light on the bottom of the dash display (which normally flashes intermittently) showed a constant red light.
I'm lost here as were the AA when they recovered the car.
anyone any idea what the issue is and what the solution is or if there is a 'work around'?
since picking up this car a few months ago i have had a 'lock out' problem and the key fob (which DOES work) has never operated the locks (receiver problem?). i haven't worked out what causes the lock out but when it happens i'm usually driving after recently setting off. the dashboard loses all dials, mileage counter and gear selection display. i'm then driving 'blind' with no idea of speed until i pull over. when i do and turn the ignition off, it's usually possible to turn the engine over for a second or so before it cuts out. if i leave the car for ten minutes it will restart normally.
i now have a variation on this problem. the car did not 'reset' when this happened yesterday and so i removed the neutral on the battery, assuming that would reset any computer glitch or relay held in place. reconnecting the neutral, the alarm on the dash sounded and the alarm light on the bottom of the dash display (which normally flashes intermittently) showed a constant red light.
I'm lost here as were the AA when they recovered the car.
anyone any idea what the issue is and what the solution is or if there is a 'work around'?
#2
05-19-2012 | 01:38 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,611
From: UK
grand voyager 3.3LE 1998 but registered 2001 in the UK.
since picking up this car a few months ago i have had a 'lock out' problem and the key fob (which DOES work) has never operated the locks (receiver problem?). i haven't worked out what causes the lock out but when it happens i'm usually driving after recently setting off. the dashboard loses all dials, mileage counter and gear selection display. i'm then driving 'blind' with no idea of speed until i pull over. when i do and turn the ignition off, it's usually possible to turn the engine over for a second or so before it cuts out. if i leave the car for ten minutes it will restart normally.
i now have a variation on this problem. the car did not 'reset' when this happened yesterday and so i removed the neutral on the battery, assuming that would reset any computer glitch or relay held in place. reconnecting the neutral, the alarm on the dash sounded and the alarm light on the bottom of the dash display (which normally flashes intermittently) showed a constant red light.
I'm lost here as were the AA when they recovered the car. Anyone any idea what the issue is and what the solution is or if there is a 'work around'?
since picking up this car a few months ago i have had a 'lock out' problem and the key fob (which DOES work) has never operated the locks (receiver problem?). i haven't worked out what causes the lock out but when it happens i'm usually driving after recently setting off. the dashboard loses all dials, mileage counter and gear selection display. i'm then driving 'blind' with no idea of speed until i pull over. when i do and turn the ignition off, it's usually possible to turn the engine over for a second or so before it cuts out. if i leave the car for ten minutes it will restart normally.
i now have a variation on this problem. the car did not 'reset' when this happened yesterday and so i removed the neutral on the battery, assuming that would reset any computer glitch or relay held in place. reconnecting the neutral, the alarm on the dash sounded and the alarm light on the bottom of the dash display (which normally flashes intermittently) showed a constant red light.
I'm lost here as were the AA when they recovered the car. Anyone any idea what the issue is and what the solution is or if there is a 'work around'?
- you need to re-marry [sync] the keyfob and the vehicle again to provide protection
- see this thread here and ask more questions when you've read it
The way people here told me to do it worked for me and unlike other methods offered, it was permanent not temporary :
- take the NEG off for whatever but at least a half hour
- replace the NEG
- turn the key to the start POS but do not START the engine
- - - the PUTER will read all BUS's and door locks, and do all checks, you will hear lots of clicks
- when the checks stop lock and unlock the doors FROM the FOB several times
- - - this will re-marry the KEYFOB and the PUTER
- start the car, while it warms up re-set the missing settings from the radio and the roof display
- stop the engine and lock in the usual way with two presses on the KEYFOB
NOTE: do not use the internal PANIC lock all doors feature if you have one on a '98
#3
05-19-2012 | 03:20 PM
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quinteq..there is no panic button (so far as i am aware) the fob is a two button fob (lock/unlock) and as i said before the fob has NEVER worked. it wasn't til the AA tested it and showed me the result on their analyser that i realised the fob DID work but the car DOES NOT receive the signal.
Obviously this means i can't follow your solution and it leaves me wondering if there is ANY solution available?!
Obviously this means i can't follow your solution and it leaves me wondering if there is ANY solution available?!
#4
05-19-2012 | 06:04 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,611
From: UK
quinteq..there is no panic button (so far as i am aware) the fob is a two button fob (lock/unlock) and as i said before the fob has NEVER worked. it wasn't till the AA tested it and showed me the result on their analyser that I realised the fob DID work but the car DOES NOT receive the signal.
Obviously this means I can't follow your solution and it leaves me wondering if there is ANY solution available?!
Obviously this means I can't follow your solution and it leaves me wondering if there is ANY solution available?!
- you need to re-marry [sync] the keyfob and the van again !
- is the battery in the FOB low on voltage ?
- the 'receiver' is part of the front of the rear view mirror on my model
Look it could be many many things if you read the Chrysler Workshop Manual for your van, but did you actually physically try what I suggested in #2 and did it work / did not work my friend.
#5
05-19-2012 | 06:50 PM
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no the fob DOES work. but the car has NEVER received the signal. I sat in the car with the AA guy while he tested both the battery and the fob signal. the fob signal showed on the AA'S receiver diagnostic kit. Unfortunately I can't try your suggestion until Monday since the car was recovered to my car mechanics workshop.
I was hoping to find a solution I could email him for Monday, since older voyagers are unusual in town - but i can't see how the above solution would work if the car has never responded to signals from the fob.
I was hoping to find a solution I could email him for Monday, since older voyagers are unusual in town - but i can't see how the above solution would work if the car has never responded to signals from the fob.
#6
05-20-2012 | 08:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,611
From: UK
Assuming everything else such as speedo & tacho gauges etc are ok give the last 8 of your vin here and maybe someone will look up what technical bulletins have been issued. It could, as stated be dozens of things from BCM to the 21 pin plug / heater control module / skim module etc.
The heater module is buried behind where the fan switch is, it's part of your heater panel. 4 screws 2 screws you can see above the radio the other 2 hidden just above the astray. The cover will just pop off. You will see a 21 pin plug you need to look in the corner of this plug. The earth wire (pin 21) melts and you loose your earth and that is what gives you your problem.
See #91
Best 'o luck !
The heater module is buried behind where the fan switch is, it's part of your heater panel. 4 screws 2 screws you can see above the radio the other 2 hidden just above the astray. The cover will just pop off. You will see a 21 pin plug you need to look in the corner of this plug. The earth wire (pin 21) melts and you loose your earth and that is what gives you your problem.
See #91
Best 'o luck !
#7
05-22-2012 | 07:20 PM
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just a little post fault report - unfortunately the communication chain wasn't ideal - the mechanic called in an auto electrician who only confirmed vague details but so far as i can ascertain, the electrician re-sync'ed the KEY with the car and gave strict instructions NOT to use the key fob, which in any case never worked! (see above). he suspected signal interference as the original cause.
#8
06-12-2012 | 06:05 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5
Same Problem - here's the cure
I have had this same problem, this should offer you a solution if you still have problems - I have just copied the quote from a previous reply 2 years ago
Good luck!
Good luck!
I had the same problem albeit with an extra twist, the ABS light came on, followed by the alarm light, and I'd lose gauges and could not start the car, although if the car was already running it would continue. Banging the dash was a hit and miss affair but would normally cure the problem for a day or two.
Following Merlin's advice I checked the heater panel and Pin 21, which although did show some signs of melting was ok. I future proofed this as pin 21 is an earth, I spliced another piece of cable into the earth cable and connected that using a ring terminal onto one of the screws on the back of the heater panel, thus bypassing the need for pin 21.
I then removed the dash and inspected the solder joints on the cable connector on the back of the dash. Even with a magnifying glass and 20:20 vision I was unable to see any soldering faults. However upon re-installing the dash, the fault was on permanently even with wiggling the cable on the back on the dash.....so out it came again.......
This time I could clearly see a small crack in the solder on one of the connections. After de-soldering and redoing the faulty solder....the problem was solved. I can't remember which pin it was but it was one of the corner ones. So even if you cannot initially see a faulty solder there may be one there!
Thanks Merlin....you saved me a fortune
Following Merlin's advice I checked the heater panel and Pin 21, which although did show some signs of melting was ok. I future proofed this as pin 21 is an earth, I spliced another piece of cable into the earth cable and connected that using a ring terminal onto one of the screws on the back of the heater panel, thus bypassing the need for pin 21.
I then removed the dash and inspected the solder joints on the cable connector on the back of the dash. Even with a magnifying glass and 20:20 vision I was unable to see any soldering faults. However upon re-installing the dash, the fault was on permanently even with wiggling the cable on the back on the dash.....so out it came again.......
This time I could clearly see a small crack in the solder on one of the connections. After de-soldering and redoing the faulty solder....the problem was solved. I can't remember which pin it was but it was one of the corner ones. So even if you cannot initially see a faulty solder there may be one there!
Thanks Merlin....you saved me a fortune
#9
07-17-2012 | 11:15 AM
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problem cured - sort of
just a follow up - and a thank you to the previous poster
banging on the dash once every week or so DOES indeed make the problem go away for a week or so. hit firmly with the palm of your hand, dead centre of the instrument gauges, works for me
banging on the dash once every week or so DOES indeed make the problem go away for a week or so. hit firmly with the palm of your hand, dead centre of the instrument gauges, works for me
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