Hey guys,

Am replacing rear pads and rotors and wanted to ask if anyone could advise if rear brake cables need to be disconnected from calipers before removing calipers from the caliper bracket. If yes, what is the procedure in doing so. First time with the Chrysler system and not yet familiar with the process. Thanks very much if anyone can help.

Lou

 

No......they do not have to be removed.

 

Thank you. Saved lots of time and hassle. Forgot to add about turning the driver and passenger side caliper pistons back in. Clockwise or counterclockwise. Thiy're near the end of their travel and am afraid of popping them out too far if I turn the wrong way or I would just try both ways if I they were more inboard. Thanks again.

Lou

 

You'll need a special tool for them. Parts stores who rent tools should have one.

 

Yeah, got the tool. Just need to know which way to turn each side to get them back into the calipers. Can you advise? Thanks.

Lou

 

Should be clockwise. The tool should be threaded in that direction.

 

Worked like a charm. Clockwise on both sides. Thanks for that.
Will be trying CRC's synthetic/moly brake grease for the sliders, pins, and other metal to metal contact points vs Never Seize which I have used in the past with success. Any opinion on one vs the other would be appreciated. Have to use something as the rotors required a sledgehammer to get them off (after a few of our Northeast winters applied their effect to the metal)! Thanks again.

Lou

 

Either is fine, just don't use anything in a spray you can't control where it goes.

 

The minor issues continue. After bottoming the LR caliper piston in its bore and reassembling the caliper, when depressing the service brake, the piston will come out to engage the inboard brake pad but will retract fully into the bore upon release. Never heard of this before. It should stay out somewhat. Also, the e-brake will work when activated but the LR caliper piston will not advance the inner pad enough to contact the rotor. And upon release, the piston will retract back into the piston bore as it should.
Any idea what's going on? I was able to get it all to work by turning the piston back out of the bore about 1/2 turn. I also heard a click inside the piston. Am I ok to use it now or will the piston/e-brake cease to function in the future as the pads wear and the free space increases. Thanks for any advice if you can help. Someone told me to make sure the piston recesses are aligned vertically in the bore to make the e-brake work right. Is this correct? Also, there are no tabs on the pads to fit into the piston recesses.

Lou

 

For next time, NEVER reverse the direction of a piston.... There is No need to bottom the piston out. Only turn it in enough to clear the new pads.

Using a 13mm wrench, Work the e-brake levers at the caliper,,, 120 or 130 pumps should do it.....It will ratchet out to meet the rotor . Just a note...the right side nut will loosen when you pull on it with the wrench....Just tighten it back up and continue.
On anything EXCEPT a CHRYSLER....Yes this is true.....We dont have tabs, and ...Technically, the ebrake will work with the piston in any position, But Vertical is preferred, because that is where the "WORM GEAR" on the piston "STARTS".

It can be very intimidating at first, but once you see how it works , you will understand....