Thanks for the response. Both sides were already back together and I'd driven about 20 miles. Can I work the e-brake by foot in the vehicle or do I need to remove the wheel and tire again and disconnect the cable from the e-brake lever to perform what you're saying with the wrench and e-brake lever nut. If I will need to do it by removing the wheel again, will I just use the wrench to turn the nut holding the e-brake lever to the worm screw which will thus turn the worm screw? The right side seems fine and needs no attention.
Did I cause any damage to the piston by working back out of the bore (max was about 1/4 to 1/2 turn)? Will the e-brake system continue to function properly going forward, at this point, if I work the piston out to meet the rotor as you suggest? Many thanks again.

Lou

 

Can anyone comment on the last few issues? Thanks.

 

I wouldnt recommend doing it the car, For the simple fact that you probably wont be able to walk for a week

Yep.....
Not at all... The only problem is increasing your Workload, As the piston moves outward away from the wormgear, and takes that much more adjustment to Mesh them back together.

yes....

Remember to use your E-brake at least 3 to four times a week, to maintain adjustment....Even if you just set and release when you park it for the night, it will make a world of difference.

 

What's the easiest way to disconnect the e-brake cable from the lever so that I can turn the nut? Many thanks.

Lou

 

You Dont have to....leave it right where it is, and Just Work the nut back and forth, What you are doing is basically simulating ebrake Actuation....But, since your Pedal is "Press To Release"...The ratcheting effect would take forever to accomplish 30 seconds of work under the car.

 

Tried the technique on the caliper lever nut to no avail. Rotated it about 150 times and the free play between the pads and rotor did not change (still about 1/16 to 1/8 inch). When I step on the service brake or on the e-brake, though, both are doing their jobs of locking up the wheel sufficiently so we must be there already. Will check again in 3-5000 mi to confirm that the piston is moving outward to take up the clearance from wear and that the e-brake is actually still working on the LR caliper and ratcheting out.
Thanks again for all your time and direction. Really helped a lot.

Lou

 

Follow up to this thread as some time has passed. Have about 25,000 mi on the rear brakes now, and was hearing some noise from the LR so decided to check for wear, etc. Much to my surprise, the LR brake pads were not nearly as worn as the RR. Also, the LR e-brake cable functions but the caliper piston does not even reach the pad. The RR cable and caliper work fine. As such, I have a LR not completely functioning caliper. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the piston, if possible, to get it working again. Also, the e-brake spring which is worn, does not pull the caliper lever all the way back to its stop when the e-brake is in the released position. Could that have affected the piston adjustment as time and miles went by. I have another thread posted about the e-brake caliper spring.
The LR service brake functions seemingly ok, but the caliper piston travel is great due to the high clearance with the pad. How can I close the gap? Do I have to replace the caliper (at some expense). Thanks for any help guys.

 

Can anyone help with any advice regarding this situation? Thanks.

 

Well, when in doubt as to the function of a rear caliper, it turns out the best solution was actually to replace the caliper. It really wasn't that expensive and definitely a no brainer if you have an extended warranty. Caliper was replaced and it is amazing how much the braking has improved. If anyone has this issue: Replace don't repair. Good luck.