The tolerances of the mechanical guts of the fuel pump are very,very fine. Temperature will have an affect of them, plus the viscosity of the fuel. If fuel pressure is low enough the ECU will detect it and cut the engine, it is possible that the fuel pressure is low, but not low enough to trip the ECU. Low fuel pressure will mean less fuel and larger droplets of fuel entering the combustion chambers which wont burn as well. The temperature of the injectors will also affect fuel atomisation and flow.

There are a lot of variables that it could be, proper diagnostics is the only way forward. Steer clear of a garage that suggests they'll try swapping bits out to see if it cures it.

If you are ever near Cambridgeshire ( a long way from NI I know) I'll be more than happy to take a look.

Regards
Richard

 

Had another thought about this. I'm damn sure that the fuel pressure is either increased or perhaps the return flow is reduced for the first 30 seconds after starting.

I'll have a look through the documentation I have to see if I can find out what I'm half remembering.

Regards
Richard

 

hi i have a 2005 chrysler grand voyager 2.8 that had exactly the same problem as you. i was very lucky in that a friend who deals with these cars knew exactly what it was and mine was the fuel heater or something similar to that he said a very common fault then i bought one from second hand dealer from another car against his advice and it has worked perfect ever since, apparantly chrysler do a conversion for this as it develops a hairline crack and i think lets air or something into the system dont quote me but i am going to find out gor you , but this heater i think warms the fuel but when i changed mine for a second hand that i got for £40 and £40 to fit my car has been running like a dream , mine was last year only happened in the cold and the other thing is when it happened it would take ages to start unless i left it thank god for the optimex battery that allowed me to start up again if i was stuck in the middle of the road, but i think this could be your problem, please tell me your findings as i hope i have saved you money now we are approaching christmas the last thing you want to do is spend money on your car buddy

 

quick question while im here ive just purchased a second hand keyfob for my 2005 chrysler voyager diesel that has full electrics doors and tailgate is it easy to program to my vehicle or does key have to be blank my mechanic says he has no idea but chrysler i believe may charge alot, any ideas guys or ladies thankyou

 

Forgot about this thread but I'll update it in case it helps someone else.
Thanks to everyone who replied and you were all along the correct lines I believe.

Anyway I nursed it through the rest of last winter as I'd become a dab hand at living with the issue!
When it started stalling again when the winter returned in September I booked it in for a standard service with the local dealer and described the problem to them then waited for the phone to ring expecting the worst and a massive quote...

Turns out they spotted that the fuel filter was not attached properly.
The standard service charge of £300 (still a bit steep!) covered everything and no additional work was required...


I lived with the problem through 2 winters and visits to independent garages and I've learnt my lesson well - should have went to the Chrysler dealer at the start!


Thanks everyone!

 

They are not cheap! But tend to get to the problem quicker. If you can find an ex Chrysler tech or someone who is familiar with these Van's! Then that is a bonus and can be alot cheaper than the Main Stealer...

 

Posted 11-27-2014, 01:21 PM

"a slack fuel filter was drawing in air" and allowing the fuel to run back was the cause. The lesson .. .. check the obvious first and the spin on fuel filter is the obvious.