Voyager Clutch problem
#2
Contrary to popular belief yes it can. The master cylinder has a rubber cap just like any other car. Getting brake fluid into the master cylinder requires a funnel and extension pipe and is ideally a 3 man job.
One to pump
One to bleed
One to fill
One to pump
One to bleed
One to fill
Last edited by glowplug; 07-26-2010 at 06:46 AM.
#4
I don't fix cars that's for sure, although I used to be a mechanic and had a long association with the racing fraternity.
Now I will answer your other question here as well.
Slave cylinder is +-£148 + vat
Master cylinder is +- £160 +vat
If you are going to buy them it is better as a pair otherwise you may get air in the system and be back to square one.
But before you spend the money try bleeding first. Now before you try the method above try this first
On you slave you will see a plastic cap with two long flexible arms either side. Take the slave off the gearbox and you will see that there are H shaped recess on the sides of the slave to accept the corresponding shaped ends of the plastic arm. Push the slave plunger in all the way so you can locate the plastic arm accordingly. This will now lock the plunger in the almost full in position.
Then remove the cap off the master cylinder and fashion up a pipe connected to a funnel to facilitate ease of filling. Have some dot3 or dot 4 available. I simply got some transparent pipe and a smalll funnel from my local hardware store, connected the two and taped the funnel to the bonnet hold up strut.
Now have a container under the master cylinder to catch fluid and from under the car pump the slave plunger in all the way and keep doing this until you see brake fluid stat being pumped out the master. I found around 15 to 20 pumps does the job. Fill and repeat until all air is gone.
This process takes it from a 3 man job to a 1 man job.
I will try and post some pictures later.
Now I will answer your other question here as well.
Slave cylinder is +-£148 + vat
Master cylinder is +- £160 +vat
If you are going to buy them it is better as a pair otherwise you may get air in the system and be back to square one.
But before you spend the money try bleeding first. Now before you try the method above try this first
On you slave you will see a plastic cap with two long flexible arms either side. Take the slave off the gearbox and you will see that there are H shaped recess on the sides of the slave to accept the corresponding shaped ends of the plastic arm. Push the slave plunger in all the way so you can locate the plastic arm accordingly. This will now lock the plunger in the almost full in position.
Then remove the cap off the master cylinder and fashion up a pipe connected to a funnel to facilitate ease of filling. Have some dot3 or dot 4 available. I simply got some transparent pipe and a smalll funnel from my local hardware store, connected the two and taped the funnel to the bonnet hold up strut.
Now have a container under the master cylinder to catch fluid and from under the car pump the slave plunger in all the way and keep doing this until you see brake fluid stat being pumped out the master. I found around 15 to 20 pumps does the job. Fill and repeat until all air is gone.
This process takes it from a 3 man job to a 1 man job.
I will try and post some pictures later.
Last edited by glowplug; 07-26-2010 at 06:44 AM.
#6
Chaps i wonder if you can help me out, i have had the clutch and rear seals changed on my voyager 2.5 crd. WHen the job was done i drove the car back home and it was fine, left it parked for a couple of days and since then i cannot put it into gear, the pedal is light as a feather, the mechanic has advised there is no bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Do i need to replace the slave/master cylinder, or has it not been fitted correctly? Please advise, have been out of action for over a week now.
#8
My Chrysler Neon 2000 model has got the plastic push-in type hydraulic fluid line for the clutch. I have found that the gravity-feed method of bleeding clutch works best with this application and it takes about 20 minutes. You need two people to bleed the clutch using this method. 1) Remove the cap from the hydraulic reservoir, remove the rubber cup. 2) remove the line from the slave cylinder, the fluid will start dripping from the slave cylinder side of the line. 3) While you are collecting the dripping fluid from underneath the car, get your helper to fill-up the reservoir with fresh fluid. 4) The dripping fluid indicates there is air trapped in the line. After few refills of the reservoir, you will notice the fluid is no longer dripping but flowing in a solid pattern. The air has been removed from the line.5)Fix the line to the slave cylinder and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. 6) Continue to collect the dripping fluid from the slave cylinder bleeder for few minutes to get a solid flow of the fluid. 7) Close the bleeder on the slave cylinder and your clutch problem is gone.
#9
Hi
first post so be gentle. I've followed your (Glowplug) instrutions on how to bleed the clutch it seems to of worked, but can you tell me how much the slave cylinder piston travels aprox. and how far the clutch release arm is has to move roughly
thanks Jason
first post so be gentle. I've followed your (Glowplug) instrutions on how to bleed the clutch it seems to of worked, but can you tell me how much the slave cylinder piston travels aprox. and how far the clutch release arm is has to move roughly
thanks Jason
#10
Similar problem - the garage have just fitted a new clutch on my 2000 Voyager 2.5td. Now they have called to say the slave cylinder has had it. Normally I would have thought this meant that the seals had gone on the cylinder but I cannot find anything about this or any replacements for the Voyager. Does this mean that it will need a new cylinder?