Garage I got it from isn't interested[sm=rant.gif]


Rang the local Chrysler dealer and it's going to cost one hour of labour - £110 (that's about $160) just to put it on the diagnostics - that's before any work is done to fix it. Not a happy bunny about this at the moment. Going to ring round to see if I can get a better deal for the diagnostics, but looks like it's not going to be cheap to fix.

 

Sorry to here that, It’s a shame you are so far away from me. You could try a bosch dealer see if they will be cheaper.

 

Found a mobile technician who charges £50 (and includes an hour labour so he may be able to look at the wiring) - he's hopefully coming to see it on Monday.

Don't know if this helps to narrow it down, but it seems to cut if I floor the accelerator, whereas if I come increase the speed more gently, then it doesn't seem to be such a problem.


Update
Tried this later on, and it did the same again, but the rev counter needle somehow jumped the stop pin and swung to the 6 o'clock position when the engine off, and then rotated clockwise and stopped against the pin when the engine was running.

Got the car home, took off the instrument surround and glass and put pulled the needle off and replaced. Somewhere, whilst doing this, and with switching the ignition on and off to check, and the ignition completely off and on (to check the need was on zero and below when off completely), the diagnostics started running - I've never managed to get this to happen before, but it came up with Sof 4.0 and then started counting 11111111 2222222 with the rev counter/speedometer needles moving up and down etc and finally 'e-code' and 'ecode end'.

I tried the on/off/on/off a three times and then got P1130 and then done.

I can't get it to to run the full diagnostics again, so I'm not sure how I got it to do it, but it obviously must be possible somehow on this model (2001 2.5 CRD in the UK)

Can anyone clarify what P1130 is - the translation on Allpar doesn't mean much to me I'm afraid.

 

I've just found this posting from a couple of years ago:

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic502096.htm

This implies a fuel problem - which is what Merlin diagnosed right at the start. Could be on the way to solving this.

 

Lol just posted this in another topic here so someone else is having the same problem so this is what I put in the other post could well add the two together as you are both having the same problem.P1130 is fuel rail pressure malfunction and can be coursed by many things most common are injector leak back should be no more then 25 mm per injector over 1 minute any more the injector is faulty. We have pots that we put on the injectors but I suppose you could just use the return off all 4 and if you get more then 100mm (25 each) then you have an injector/s at fault. Other common is what we call the prop valve and that is the pressure control solenoid on the high-pressure pump, 3 screws and easy to change but is an expensive guess (but less then the pump). Other is the pressure relief on the rail; you will have a leak off pipe from the rail. Remove this pipe and make sure you have no fuel coming out of the rail at idle (you will get fuel from the pipe so block this if you wish).
Eddit: this is the leak back pipes (rubber)on the injectors and railDO NOT touch the high pressure pipes (metal) when the engine is running.

 

Hi
just to add the guages will do a sweep when the battery voltage is low

 

Battery is OK as far as I know, it wasn't s single sweep, it seemed synchronised to the counting up of the codes.

However, as a result of information on here, and also from someone else who has had this same problem, I've decided not to do anything with the Voyager, but instead, I'm rejecting the vehicle on the basis that this is a major fault and if the dealer won't refund the money (and at the moment, he's looking like he won't), then I will be taking it through the court to force the issue.

 

Update - after rejecting the car, the dealer had a change of heart and decided that perhaps he would take the car back and diagnose/fix it at his expense, so I now have the car back running as it should do.

One strange thing - on one occasion of cutting (before it went in for repair), the rev counter dropped so fast that it jumped the stop pin (can't figure out how it did this) so when switch off, the needle was pointing to the 6 o'clock position, and then moved clockwise to the pin when running. I removed the plastic cover, removed the needle and replaced it in the correct position. What I have noticed now though is that when the needle gets to just over 2000rpm, the needle illumination fades out, and only comes back just above 3000rpm - bit strange really, but not a problem.