Winterizing your diesel Grand Voyager.
#1
Winterizing your diesel Grand Voyager.
As my simple second thermostat mod. proved so popular, I thought I'd continue the theme. The results of the second thermostat mod. have been good, most especially with the warmup time of the HEATER, and its final temperature, now much better and hotter. With ambients of around 55*F it's now similar to petrol in warmup time. No partic change in mpg. yet however. But it should avoid the sudden sharp increase in diesel consumption when the climate gets really cold.
Because diesels make only about a third of the heat in the watercoolant compared to petrol for the same engine output, the amount of cooling required is a great deal less. As the radiators fitted to diesels are usually the same as their petrol version (economies of bulk buying) their cooling capacity is massively overstated with diesels. Evidence shows most cooling is required in traffic jams, least cooling on the motorway/highway at speeds of around 60mph. (I came across a so-called professional on the net. who thought diesels actually needed MORE cooling than equiv. petrols!) Please note this part does not apply to petrol engines.
The pictures show what has been done; even with an ambient of 60*F, there was no temperature rise above normal with ALL the blockages in place, excepting a very slight one in an extended traffic jam on the M62. The easy-removed cowling blockage will deal with even a hot climate -- but if that be the case, you wouldn't be doing any of this anyhow... The fabricating and mounting of the main grill blockage 3-ply needed some screws removing, but they are easy and obvious. Painting it black made it well-nigh invisible. Quinteq's idea of using pipe-lagging is a good one, easy, quick, cheap, and not likely to get 'nicked.
There are many of the opinion that if you get the thermostat right, there is no need for any blockage of the rad. grills. I'm afraid this is just wrong. In winter, the icy blast of air around the block(s) blows off a significant amount of heat from those block(s). Just stick your head out the window at only 30mph. in freezing weather, and you'll feel the effect on your face. Or check out cars in really cold countries. Blocked grills are common. Of course, you don't block the actual radiator. If the fans came on, it would still overheat. And you're not going to be using the freezer part of the A/C. The small loss of intercooling for the turbo is also not likely to be a problem in freezing weather either. Please note this part does not apply to petrol engines.
The fan heater on engine sump has been tested for a couple of years or so. 2Kw. for an hour in the cold morning will raise the engine temp. by 6*C., and cost about 30p. And there's nothing to stop you placing a small electric fan heater INSIDE the car...but don't point it at any plastic...
The undersump fan heater will also raise the oil temp. a LOT, making a more easy start and very much less wear in the cold warmup. The modest heating of the battery will also help. Ok., an in-line water heater and pump fitted in the bottom hose will be much more efficient, but a lot less cost effective. The fan heater isn't going to cost you £250 to £350 in total. It cost me a fiver, Leeds market. BTW, don't bother with electric sump heaters -- they are too small, and only heat the oil anyhow. Those you push down the dipstick hole just fry the oil around them.
You'll need to cut away some of the 'struts' of the under-cover, this is no prob. Tin snips work best here.
Resume' of winterizing:--
1) Second battery in use, with an isolator switch. This enables a better winter cold start with two batteries. Now used in many vehicles, esp. with parasitic load draining effects.
2) Second thermostat as described. Now used in many vehicles.
3) Electric sump/engine fan heater -- not perfect, but very cheap and easy to fit.
4) Intelligent grill-blocking for winter. Well known in all cold countries.
Money:--
Electric fan heater.............£5, second-hand, but looked new. (2Kw.).
Some three-ply................Nix, already to hand.
Leedsman.
Because diesels make only about a third of the heat in the watercoolant compared to petrol for the same engine output, the amount of cooling required is a great deal less. As the radiators fitted to diesels are usually the same as their petrol version (economies of bulk buying) their cooling capacity is massively overstated with diesels. Evidence shows most cooling is required in traffic jams, least cooling on the motorway/highway at speeds of around 60mph. (I came across a so-called professional on the net. who thought diesels actually needed MORE cooling than equiv. petrols!) Please note this part does not apply to petrol engines.
The pictures show what has been done; even with an ambient of 60*F, there was no temperature rise above normal with ALL the blockages in place, excepting a very slight one in an extended traffic jam on the M62. The easy-removed cowling blockage will deal with even a hot climate -- but if that be the case, you wouldn't be doing any of this anyhow... The fabricating and mounting of the main grill blockage 3-ply needed some screws removing, but they are easy and obvious. Painting it black made it well-nigh invisible. Quinteq's idea of using pipe-lagging is a good one, easy, quick, cheap, and not likely to get 'nicked.
There are many of the opinion that if you get the thermostat right, there is no need for any blockage of the rad. grills. I'm afraid this is just wrong. In winter, the icy blast of air around the block(s) blows off a significant amount of heat from those block(s). Just stick your head out the window at only 30mph. in freezing weather, and you'll feel the effect on your face. Or check out cars in really cold countries. Blocked grills are common. Of course, you don't block the actual radiator. If the fans came on, it would still overheat. And you're not going to be using the freezer part of the A/C. The small loss of intercooling for the turbo is also not likely to be a problem in freezing weather either. Please note this part does not apply to petrol engines.
The fan heater on engine sump has been tested for a couple of years or so. 2Kw. for an hour in the cold morning will raise the engine temp. by 6*C., and cost about 30p. And there's nothing to stop you placing a small electric fan heater INSIDE the car...but don't point it at any plastic...
The undersump fan heater will also raise the oil temp. a LOT, making a more easy start and very much less wear in the cold warmup. The modest heating of the battery will also help. Ok., an in-line water heater and pump fitted in the bottom hose will be much more efficient, but a lot less cost effective. The fan heater isn't going to cost you £250 to £350 in total. It cost me a fiver, Leeds market. BTW, don't bother with electric sump heaters -- they are too small, and only heat the oil anyhow. Those you push down the dipstick hole just fry the oil around them.
You'll need to cut away some of the 'struts' of the under-cover, this is no prob. Tin snips work best here.
Resume' of winterizing:--
1) Second battery in use, with an isolator switch. This enables a better winter cold start with two batteries. Now used in many vehicles, esp. with parasitic load draining effects.
2) Second thermostat as described. Now used in many vehicles.
3) Electric sump/engine fan heater -- not perfect, but very cheap and easy to fit.
4) Intelligent grill-blocking for winter. Well known in all cold countries.
Money:--
Electric fan heater.............£5, second-hand, but looked new. (2Kw.).
Some three-ply................Nix, already to hand.
Leedsman.
Last edited by Leedsman; 10-11-2013 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Bad spelling.
#3
"Winterizing" --- minor mod.
I've improved the efficiency of the engine pre-heat with an electric fan heater; now it lifts the engine temperature by about 12*C for the same kilowatt hours. (I have a separate temp. sensor on cylinder head, I don't rely on the Chrysler one). The cranking is now noticeably faster when cold.
See picture which is self explanatory, and by making a discrete mark on the number plate I can locate the device correctly without kneeling down. A little more of the undertray needs to be cut away to suit this partic. fan heater.
All ready for the really cold stuff now...
Money?...nix, already in stock.
Leedsman.
See picture which is self explanatory, and by making a discrete mark on the number plate I can locate the device correctly without kneeling down. A little more of the undertray needs to be cut away to suit this partic. fan heater.
All ready for the really cold stuff now...
Money?...nix, already in stock.
Leedsman.
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