I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager with a 3.0 Mitsu motor. 159K.

I was driving the other day and the engine quit. Would not restart. Upon turning the key to "On" you can hear the fuel pump hum for apx .5-1 second. Sprayed starting fluid into the TB and nothing. It cranks but will not spit.

I used a code reader and the car had the code P0340 stored but the item for displaying the check engine light was still off(on the code reader's primitive display).

My question is...Is the cam sensor truly the culprit? Can that code be in there just because the car has another problem or merely because it failed to start? Will a faulty cam sensor stop the spark?

 

Anyone with any thoughts on this?

 

Could be the cam sensor, crank sensor, the PCM or the wiring that connects them. 3rd generation vans are infamous for failing cam/crank sensors not throwing a code or throwing the code of the opposite sensor at fault. Some shops automatically change both sensors in a ASD deactivation situation as is most likely your situation. Yes, the cam sensor will kill spark. If the PCM doesn't see a cam or crank sensor signal while cranking, it de-energizes the ASD relay. This cuts power to the ignition coil amongst other things. If the PCM doesn't detect engine rotation, the fuel pump relay also looses power while cranking.

 

Would I be better off replacing the crank sensor first?

 

What would I do? I am a DIYer just like you. If I were up to speed on using a multimeter I would verify wire continuity and reference voltage from the PCM to the cam and crank sensors. If I had no idea of how to use a meter I would do a visual inspection of the same. If all looked good I would change the CAM sensor first. If that didn't do it I would change the crank sensor next. Yes, a cam sensor code can turn out to be a bad crank sensor. Not always the case. You can't be faulted for going for a cam sensor when a cam sensor code is starring you in the face.

Notice the word highlighted on this web page: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0340

If you disconnect PCM connections disconnect the negative battery cable first. Disconnecting the PCM or any microprocessor with power applied (it's always there) can damage it.

 

I read yesterday on how to test the sensor's 12+, ground, and 5V or 8V output impulse upon engine rotation. I read that I can not test it using the starter to rotate the motor and have to have someone manually rotate it while I watch the multimeter. Is this correct?

I am trying to avoid the cam sensor unless I am sure that it is the culprit. The cam sensor is not replaceable except with complete distributor replacement.

 

Missed that ugly little 3.0 detail. I've never had to test it on a 3.0 but from looking around it appears you are right. Here's one example: Part 6 -Distributor Tests. Ignition Coil Test. Chrysler 3.0L (87-95).

Here's a little more on the subject. I'm not big on these "rent an expert" sites but here he has posted manual info. Unfortunately it involves using a scanner but maybe you can glean something out of it: http://www.justanswer.com/car/0c933-...ck-engine.html