I am working on my monster in law's 95 Cirrus. It has many issues some of which I've already worked out. The biggest issue was someone else had their hands in there before I started on it so I had to put things back together just to figure out what's wrong.

Anyway, I originally had no spark and narrowed it down to a bad coil in the junkyard distributor that was installed. Now I have spark and it runs but has no power. It runs relatively smooth for the most part but won't get out of its own way. I also replaced all the plugs, cleaned the puddles of oil out of all the plug holes, tested the resistance in the wires, checked the compression and replaced the relevant gaskets while I had it all apart.

I disconnected the exhaust to see if the CAT was clogged with no change in performance. I currently have codes 12, 35, 32 and 23 in that order.

I'm not worried about 12. The battery was stone dead when I got it.

35 I figured I would worry about later. I assumed it would not effect power but could be mistaken. The fan comes on when the key goes on.

32 I though maybe started because I disconnected the exhaust but I removed the EGR and the small top vacuum line was completely plugged with carbon and the rest was pretty dirty. I cleaned it, repaired the broken bolt I snapped removing it and still need to install. I stopped there last night.

Lastly, code 23 says air intake voltage. Not sure what to check or what the voltage should be. I side barred that for now too figuring I have more major issues first.

If putting the EGR valve back has no effect on the power, I would like to check the fuel pressure. I've searched and searched and can't get two matching answers to what the pressure should be or where I should check it at.

I want to also check the timing belt positioning. I want to see if it jumped a tooth or was installed wrong. I know it was replaced some time ago by the same person who installed the bad distributor, didn't put everything back together right and replaced broken bolts with zip ties and c-clamps.Any help on how to do this without removing the plenum would be appreciated. I was thinking getting the #6 piston to BDC instead of #1 to TDC and checking the marks. Sound reasonable?

I don't have the service manual and cannot seem to find one. I would love to find one on line some place. I've been searching on line and using the very mediocre one on Autozone. Anyway, any help or advice short of buying the battle axe a new car would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. Thanks for reading.

 

I wonder if that 23 could be part of the problem. The computer uses the intake air temperature information for, among other things, to determine how rich the fuel-air mixture needs to be. Kind of like a choke..remember those? Driving around with the choke on would produce a similar result, no power. Might want to consider testing and/or replacing that IAT sensor.

 

Thanks for the input. I will try that tonight. I have been busy with other pressing family matters and had to put this aside. I did replace the EGR with no effect. I went to the library and got a Chilton Manual. I will try to test the IAT sensor and see what I come up with. It would be nice if it were just that simple.

I was thinking the timing belt may be off a tooth too but I really don't think so. One of the issues I'm having is the "other set of hands" that were in there. Given everything else he did that I've had to fix along the way, nothing would surprise me. I know he replaced the belt a while back. If I can't find anything else I am going to see if maybe that's a installed incorrectly.

You should see some of the hack things he did but that's a story for another time. How often have you repaired exhausts with a C Clamp? lol